Yep, the sheet metal part of check valve can crush.. I guess if you turn the motor over a couple times, you'll squash it enough that it won't move anymore but you'll have to re-adjust the pushrods.

 

Man, I'm chomping at the bit to get my bike up and running. It figures that the weather has been unusually nice while my bike is apart. I'm hoping the heads will be ready soon. In the mean time, I have installed a screamin eagle clutch spring and a new transmission side cover while I was changing the fluids in those two holes. I'm also dropping off my header to get new O2 bungs installed. I've been doing a lot of reading/watching on doing the head mockup to check piston to valve clearance and I have a few questions. Do I install and check p to v clearance on both heads at the same time? Is that why you're only supposed to turn the engine over twice? Also, what is the preferred method for adjusting the pushrods when checking p to v clearance. I know I need to find tdc in order to adjust the pushrods while the lifters are on the flat (off the lobe) of the cam but do I need to put a straw in hole or something similar when determining tdc or do I just feel the lifter and find between where the intake is closing and the exhaust is opening and then adjust the pushrods on the other cylinder? Phew, sorry for the long sentence. Thanks for the responses!

 

Hello all. I am almost finished with my build so I thought I would update this thread.

Last week I got my stage 2 heads back from Hillside. They looked beautiful and Scott and crew also did a port match with the throttle body. I mocked up the heads with 0.062" solder wire and there were no marks at all on the wire. The engine went together pretty easily except there was a lot of top end noise. It turns out I needed 3.5 turns on the screamin eagle tapered adjustable pushrods rather that the 2.5 turns that the instructions state. I forgot that most people on this forum recommend the additional turn when using aftermarket cams. The engine is nice and quiet now. It was a night and day difference.

Besides the engine mods, I also added a target tune module that I bought used here in the classifieds section. When i fired the engine up it ran like crap. I took it for a short spin and it stalled a few times. It was throwing map/iat codes too. I figured there could be issues with the used target tune so I hooked the stock o2 sensors back up and it seemed to run better until it warmed up. It still ran crappy and was throwing the codes. I read that both codes were related to the same sensor on the throttle body so I tried to check the connection by looking under the gas take. Eventually I pulled the tank and the map connector unplugged when i touched it to check if it was tight. I remember calling it a night on Friday right after I plugged the various connections to the throttle body. I figured I'd start fresh on Saturday to make sure I got everything right. Apparently I got that part wrong.

Now the bike is running nice and smooth and not throwing any codes. I took it for a 5 mile ride and it runs smoother, especially at lower rpms. It also sounds good. It doesnt feel any more powerful though. I didn't notice any seat of the pants difference. Today I'm going to hook the target tune up again and try a few auto tunes and see if that helps. After that I'll be off to the dyno.

Thanks to this forum and those who responded to my questions and even those that participated in other threads. I would not have had the courage to try this otherwise.

Gregg

 

With Scott's heads, CR575 cams, the right compression and a good tune; the butt dyno should be feeling the change. The motor needs a dyno tune; that's the only way to optimize performance. If fuel or timing is way off, the newly built motor will not be happy.

 

Yup, that is the plan. I'll post my dyno sheet when it's done.

Gregg

 

Ugh, I still haven't been to the dyno but I can say the bike runs better than ever. Unfortunately on Friday I was broadsided by a Subaru. As I drove down the street, the kid pulled out of a business on one side of the street and went directly across the street to a business on the other side. He did not see me although I saw him stopped in the driveway as I drove by. Long story short, he hit me, I bounced onto the car and then landed on my head and shoulder on the pavement. I had nothing broke and very minimal roadrash but my shoulder and knee are sore. I'm lucky to be alive. I hope to find out tomorrow if the bike will be totaled.

Gregg

 

Sorry to hear and hoping you recover quickly. That situation is the most dangerous opportunity for contact with a four wheeler and the one I am most afraid of and always on the lookout for; a vehicle approaching the road way from a side road. What are your plans if the bike is totaled?

 

Thanks, I'm trying to figure out what to do if the bike is totaled. I might buy it back and fix it as I think it's fixable. I'm probably more of a casual rider than many here. I was looking at this bike as my forever bike. I wanted to make it what I wanted and keep it forever, even if it didn't get ridden a lot. The way this went down has me considering giving up riding, at least for awhile. I saw the car at the intersection and he was stopped, not creeping forward or anything. I felt like I was almost by him. I had just came out of a traffic circle and my side of the road turns into 2 lanes immediately after the intersection he was at. I looked ahead for 1 second getting ready to get into the right line and he came out and hit me. This is not a busy road and there were no obstructions between us. I was in the wrong place at the wrong time I guess. At least I'm ok.

Gregg

 

[QUOTE=Ropestringer;19129126]The way this went down has me considering giving up riding, at least for awhile. IQUOTE]

Keyboard comments aside, that’s a personal decision only you can make
best of luck moving forward