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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Pardon the stupid ?? I ask ,When swapping cams why does the cam plate and oil pump need replaced?Trying to do a budget build (cam swap)and just trying to find a cost effective way, guess I don't do stuff just because everyone else has done it the same way.I know nothing will give me performance like a 98 or 103 build but hey I cant freaking afford to do that nor probabaly ever will . I figure a bolt in cam swap at around $375,a cam swap with hyd. tens. cam plate, oil pump etc $600, geared cam s (I really want) around $700 is the extra estimated 10 HP worth the extra $$$.from the bolt in cam.Can I put a Baisley spring in my stock cam plate or is it a POS along with the tensioners ,Will a S&S 510 bolt in be a good cam along with my Stage 1 I have on now the 05 FXDWG EFI or should I stay a tad smaller like a Andrews 26 (they recommend)Appreciate your time and Help
Hey Kaycee, last winter I was in the same boat, trying to do a budget build while improving perfromance as much as possible. I had my bike dyno'd for $30 before I did the build and had 68 HP and 80 ft/lb torque with a stock engine and aftermarket intake and exhaust.Your cam plate and oil pump DO NOT have to be replaced. I bought my bike used ('06 FXST , carbed) and the only had 8500 miles on it when I did my engine build. There's nothing wrong with a stock cam plate or oil pump, I added the Baisley spring to get some additional oil pressure, a very effective low-cost ($15) modification. The tensioners were in good shape so I didn't have to replace those either. I removed the inner cam bearings and replaced with Timken B-148's which is highly recommended and cheap too. After much research and hand-wringing I decided on an Andrews 26A cam. I also had enough in my budget to go to SE 95" cylinders and pistons and have a cc and decking done to the heads to accomodate the 26 cams which cost me $100 at Hillside. I used my stock pushrods since I had the engine apart and put in a Cometic .030 head gasket. I'm at 80 HP and 98 ft/lb torque after the build and am very happy with the peformance, it's like a different bike. I can't speak about the S&S cam but I like the 26, good acceleration from down low to 4500 rpm where I ride, very tunable and runs on 93 octane pump gas all year round. IMO you will have a noticeble gain from a cam only change. If you can swing another $100 for a cc and deck of the heads you'll be even better off maximizing the potential of the cam. Since I have a carb, I only had to change my jetting. With an EFI, you'll need a tuner which will drive up the cost. Good luck.
OK thanks for the reply,I was going to replace the inner bearings as well allso allready have a PC3,V&H Longshots and hi flow A/C.Guess I'll look at some pistons and jugs,so many options :icon_bubbles I guess I need to call some folks and see what they can set me up with .
I got my pistons (22851-99a, $175.00, $140 with 20% off)and jugs at Chicago HD for 20% off but I don't think they offer that discount anymore. Guys on the forum have mentioned Surdyke HD as a source to get online discounts. The most economical way to go would be to buy the pistons and then send your cylinders to have them bored. Bigboyzcycles.com in Maine will bore your cylinders for $130.00.
replacing you bearings and tensioners would be #1 other than the cam...Oil Pump?myour choice...if the bike runs good do the spring like the other guy said...but if you have the coins, hell buy the pieces to increase the displacement.....No Replacement for Displacement
I need to do some preventative maintenance on my bike . Bought it second hand and I believe the prior owner had changed the tensioners when he had it. The bike now has 110 K on it and I think I had better change them.
Question is: Go with stock tensioners or go hydraulic?
I need to do some preventative maintenance on my bike . Bought it second hand and I believe the prior owner had changed the tensioners when he had it. The bike now has 110 K on it and I think I had better change them.
Question is: Go with stock tensioners or go hydraulic?
Your money but the hyd set up with better pump is one of the best things HD did for the twin cams!
I have researched this to no end and it looks like about $700 to get rid of the spring ten. I just pulled my cover and the tensioners still look great,now do I tear a completely good running no leaking motor down and spend $1500 on a big bore/cam change or put a set of nice bolt in cams for $300.and spend the rest on whiskey and hookers. Just had another idea can a guy run the 07 newer cam plate in the older TC??
I have researched this to no end and it looks like about $700 to get rid of the spring ten. I just pulled my cover and the tensioners still look great,now do I tear a completely good running no leaking motor down and spend $1500 on a big bore/cam change or put a set of nice bolt in cams for $300.and spend the rest on whiskey and hookers. Just had another idea can a guy run the 07 newer cam plate in the older TC??
You know it all depends what you expect out of your bike and if you dont mind pulling your cam chest open every 15,000 miles. Cheep: just do the cam, inner bearings and replace OEM tensioners and check on them periodically especially if you dont put up many miles. Pricey: upgrade to new hyd tensioner/better oil pump, cams, big bore, inner bearings and piece of mind that you dont need to check on them but maybe every 75,000 miles.
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