Early TC88 cam plate question
A buddy has this low mile cam plate w/ cams, but the newer style has an extra orifice that my block doesnt have.
Can i I block this off somehow or should I switch everything to my original cam plate with new bearings?
99 cam plate
2000+ can plate
I have spent hours searching through threads here to find that.
Thank you all!!
The screw is short so as not to block the oil passage behind the hole - it just threads in and seals.
IMPORTANT - YOU MAY HAVE AN OIL PUMP ISSUE IF YOU REPLACE THE PUMP - I IDENTIFIED THIS AND THE POWERS THAT BE DECIDED TO LET IT GO. THere are 2 problems with installing a 2000 and later pump into an early 1999 case. THe first is the backcut on the flywheel shaft that drives the gerotors. Early flywheels had a shorter backcut, and later pumps required a deeper backcut to accommodate the wave springs and separator plates. If the backcut is too short, the gerotors will have pressure on them and the pump will sump. The second is with the snout of the pump and the hole in the block it fits into. The 1999 oil pump has a short shout compared to the later pumps. It is entirely possible that a later pump will be installed in an EARLY 1999 case and the snout will hit the case and not seal on the o-ting and the pump will sump. If you need specifics, please let me know.
For the snout issue, I have attached pics below. The larger hole is actually a Beta case, but was the same for later Alphas. If you have a long snout later pump and a smaller diameter EARLY diameter hole, the snout will hit the case and the o-ring will not seal. Again - there is also a gerotor issue with the flywheels as well.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Apr 1, 2020 at 08:28 PM.
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I compared the original oil pump to a new one (07-up) to use with the Andrews conversion kit and found the snout on the pump to be a 1/6 " shorter than the stock pump. so according to your post I should be okay there. My concern now is crank back cut. I'm thinking if I push the pump and cam plate in without the cams I should be able to see or feel if the is any extra pressure?
Also it seems the cam plate may need the screw installed to block the hole since there is no extra oil boss in the engine case?
Any thoughts?
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Fewer members own early models but those that do will benefit from Ed's reply so the more that see it, the better.
To Steve - Any H-D cam plate later than the original 1999 is going to have the hole to feed the Softail balancers. I will wager to say the aftermarket will be the same. If your case does not have the boss that simulates the feed for the Softail balancers, you need the block off screw/seal kit. I still have some of those so you can message me privately as this is not a sales thread. Also I assume you meant to say that the new pump snout is 1/16" shorter than the pump coming out. If that's the case you're good there.
Regarding the gerotors and the flywheel issue. Approximately the first 2-3 months of Twin Cam production did not have the proper back cut on the flywheel shaft that drives the gerotors to accommodate the 99A and later pumps with a spring wave washer and resulted in massive sumping. Special back-cut gerotors were tested but never went into production. If your production date is later than the first few months it will most likely not be an issue. I would advise checking to be 100% if you have any doubt.
Checking it the way you suggest can mess you up because of the wave washer. When installing a cam plate/pump with the wave washer, the assembly always has a little compression because the washer presses the gerotors against the plate and the pump. Your thought is correct if you install the plate/pump/gerotors/wave washer as a complete assembly and have ZERO compression when the plate sits flush in the case. Below is how I would do it.
1) Cams out.
2) Without installing the snout o-ring that seals the pump to the case, install pump/wave washer/gerotors assembly onto the shaft. (Without the snout o-ring in place because you are not going to want to have any sensation of resistance when you do your final checks.)
3) Install the plate in position. Not meaning to install/tighten all the plate to case bolts - just put it into place so you can tighten the pump to it.
4) Tighten the pump to the plate (don't have to torque it full, just make sure it's drawn completely to the plate (you want to compress the spring wave washer. This will eliminate any compression of the wave washer that could mess you up on final check)
5) With the pump now tightened against the plate you should be able to move the plate/pump assembly back and forth (not remove it) so that the so that you can check that the plate will go flush to the case WITH NO SENSATION OF THE INNERMOST GEROTOR HITTING THE SHAFT AND BEING PUSHED INTO THE PUMP. If there is ANY compression of the innermost gerotor at this point, it will not seal to the pump housing and you will have huge sumping issues. So if you can put the plate to the case with ZERO sensation of additional compression of the wave spring you are good to go.
The other way to do this is depth measurements.
Hope this clears it up. If not just let me know.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Apr 19, 2022 at 09:37 PM.













