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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Clearly to long of screw was used in this hole. It cant hurt to try the goodson that prodrag mentioned, I would drill to small holes from the side into the crack top and bottom to try to get the glue in the crack with a syringe maybe even getting some in the threads and put the stud in that u speak of. Dont fill the thread hole with glue, that will cause it to break out more. Also the idea of vise grips(as mentioned) to bring the crack in some after that. I think u could get away with half torque on this stud and still not leak.
Welding should be last resort
Last edited by xcbullet; Mar 28, 2020 at 12:54 PM.
Clearly to long of screw was used in this hole. It cant hurt to try the goodson that prodrag mentioned, I would drill to small holes from the side into the crack top and bottom to try to get the glue in the crack with a syringe maybe even getting some in the threads and put the stud in that u speak of. Dont fill the thread hole with glue, that will cause it to break out more. Also the idea of vise grips(as mentioned) to bring the crack in some after that. I think u could get away with half torque on this stud and still not leak.
Welding should be last resort
i dont want to weld it but the last thing I want is that piece braking free and blowing my
mint motor ! I figured a zero expansion product could easily be pressed into that crack maybe notch a light Chanel on top of it - the crack is j shaped and starts to work around the bottom I will look for that product maybe I can find it locally if that is the product that will survive in that specific environment oil and heat resistant then I cant see there being an issue
Any thoughts on where I could find that stuff ?
Clearly to long of screw was used in this hole. It cant hurt to try the goodson that prodrag mentioned, I would drill to small holes from the side into the crack top and bottom to try to get the glue in the crack with a syringe maybe even getting some in the threads and put the stud in that u speak of. Dont fill the thread hole with glue, that will cause it to break out more. Also the idea of vise grips(as mentioned) to bring the crack in some after that. I think u could get away with half torque on this stud and still not leak.
Welding should be last resort
Quote from OP' ... "went to reinstall cam plate and found a crack in my engine" .... well if he discovered it getting ready for re-assembly maybe not ... On the other hand I thought of possibly a "hydraulic situation" ... fluid in the bolt hole and compressing ..
I would also be checking the outter area very closely too for hairline cracks. Granted the inside area is the weakest area but who knows. You could buildup the inner area and that could expose an outter crack too.
Quote from OP' ... "went to reinstall cam plate and found a crack in my engine" .... well if he discovered it getting ready for re-assembly maybe not ... On the other hand I thought of possibly a "hydraulic situation" ... fluid in the bolt hole and compressing ..
I saw that crack in the powder coat about 6 mo this ago when I did the first cam install but it wasnt clean through I figured crack in powder coat then this time it was clear it was much more - it either broke when I cracked that fastener free the very first time or it was broken by the mechanic for the Suffolk county PD when they had the bike either way its cracked and needs to be dealt with .
And its not on the outer case thank god for that only the inside
I don't know I just googled Goodson epoxy and this came up . It says it good with oil and gas, good to 250 degrees, also can be drilled and tapped. Made for engine blocks and the like. I actually like the second epoxy link I posted better do to it being more liquid, might get in crack better.
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