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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
my buddy who lives 3 hours away has a serious setup and he let me use it I ran some practice runs on a junk aluminum intake manifold for a Honda Civic then just got to it ! I couldnt have ever trusted epoxy and Im glad I just ripped it apart and handled business also picked up some crane roller rockers at a steal to replace the ultima rollers I was running so now its back to stock rocker arm ratio with the cranes and new Andrews 48s in conjunction with a beefed up primary and some other things as well !
This is the finished product
Made some test passes with the mig before switching setups and jumping on the spool gun Its a workin progress if its clean then Ive got nothing to do and thats when the legal cost pile up 😈 There it will stay until the crane roller rockers arrive but Ill take the time to clean her up a bit Good as new with the acceptation of the missing powder coat you would never know she was cracked !
You're in tough on that one. Here's what I'd might try so you don't disrupt the integrity further. Get a vacuum source over the bolt hole. Spray brake clean all around the crack with the vacuum applied. This will clean it out pretty good. Second round of cleaning with acetone or primer fluid for Green Loctite. Blow cracked area dry with vacuum over screw hole. Then with vacuum applied over screw hole, apply Green Loctite in to the crack having it be drawn in to the crack with the vacuum. Swab out any excess from the threaded hole with a Q tip or some such. Chase the thread before the Loctite fully cures. The green Loctite requires an open flame heat to soften for removal in normal applications like bearing setting or U joint cups. I think this could be the strongest bonding method you'll get on that damage. Experiment and pay close attention with the cleaning steps to make sure those substances draw through the crack. If that looks OK the green Loctite should draw in to the crack as well. Best of luck.
Hahaha. Late on my reply. I see you already took care of it. Good luck.
You're in tough on that one. Here's what I'd might try so you don't disrupt the integrity further. Get a vacuum source over the bolt hole. Spray brake clean all around the crack with the vacuum applied. This will clean it out pretty good. Second round of cleaning with acetone or primer fluid for Green Loctite. Blow cracked area dry with vacuum over screw hole. Then with vacuum applied over screw hole, apply Green Loctite in to the crack having it be drawn in to the crack with the vacuum. Swab out any excess from the threaded hole with a Q tip or some such. Chase the thread before the Loctite fully cures. The green Loctite requires an open flame heat to soften for removal in normal applications like bearing setting or U joint cups. I think this could be the strongest bonding method you'll get on that damage. Experiment and pay close attention with the cleaning steps to make sure those substances draw through the crack. If that looks OK the green Loctite should draw in to the crack as well. Best of luck.
Hahaha. Late on my reply. I see you already took care of it. Good luck.
thanks brotha I had purchased multiple products and did multiple test on each one the Goodson product and
HY-POXY ALUMABOND were the 2 strongest products anything u can go buy locally ( loctite / Permatex / jb weld ) its all junk ! But ultimately I needed to repair it where I could trust it to ride out to California my motor only gave 7K miles on it so half ***n it wasnt an option that said I know I can weld aluminum if I have to and Im apparently good at it so now all I have to do is spend 8 grand on a machine and spool gun lmfao fingers we crossed Im not repairing any other cracked cases any time soon
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