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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I'm pondering a solution to my 106" Evo that was built around shitty Axtell cast iron cylinders. Don't look into the details of that here, see my build thread on that. What I'd like to know of is if anyone here has ever pressed the cylinder sleeve (liner) out of an OEM cylinder.
What I'd like to do is press the sleeve out, bore the aluminum part of the cylinder out to fit a larger LA Sleeve (interference fit is .004") sized for my 3.8125" pistons, and then finish bore/hone to my pistons.
Before anyone gets ahead of themselves there's only two organizations that do this size cylinder for the Evo: Axtell and Revolution Performance. I already have the **** Axtell cylinders, and Rev Perf is Nikasil, and their kit comes with flat top pistons which I'm not using.
I think you'll find most manufacturers cast the aluminium part of the barrel around the cylinder, meaning they can't be pressed out but have to be machined out.
on OEM evo cylinders,you`ll have to bore the sleeve out,not press it.sleeving a cylinder isnt a big job.any decent HD machine shop should be able to do it
I had a similar experience with a set o Axtell cylinders; twice they wouldn't hold a true bore. I had a set of OEM cylinders re-sleeved by a guy on the west coast that had a good reputation but the new liner slipped in one of the cylinders after just a few miles. Final solution was a set of MTC sleeved cylinders that I ordered at 4.080" which we bored/honed to 4.125" for my all bore 107" motor. That setup is still running today after 30K miles in a motor that makes 110HP/124TQ and ring seal is still good. The OP might consider contacting MTC Engineering and see what they have to offer. I know that they can re-sleeve an after market cylinder and fit a 3.625" bore sleeve for 88" displacement but don't see that sleeve being bored to 3.8125. However, MTC also does custom machine work so maybe that is an option.
Thanks for the inputs fellas. Since I try to DIY as much as I can I'm really trying to get as far as possible by myself. I already own a:
20 ton press
Grizzly G0704 mill w/ boring bar and clamp down kit (and lot of other attachments)
Micrometers for centering cylinder under spindle
Oven for heating the cylinder before sleeve install
I've seen some videos of people using a Bridgeport type mill for cylinder boring, and some using a lathe (without torque plates...). I don't have torque plates (although I suppose I could make them) so I was planning on asking Kirby to fit the pistons to the bores for me. I'm confident I can do everything else. Even if I have to bore the cylinder sleeve out of the OEM cylinder, I'm capable. I've got much more time than money anyway so if it takes my little mill 15 min to go full stroke length while only taking out .010" each pass than so be it. I'm not in a hurry.
The MTC website doesn't show sleeves up to my needed ID, but I'll drop them a line to see what they can do. They certainly have great sleeve pricing compared to LA Sleeve.
Im here looking for the link on the Axtell cylinder issues you had. Post up if you will and thanks. I always thought Axtell was a great company. Still do I guess. Just curious what the issue is.
Im here looking for the link on the Axtell cylinder issues you had. Post up if you will and thanks. I always thought Axtell was a great company. Still do I guess. Just curious what the issue is.
Read my build debacle in the Evo forum. Basically after EXTREMELY extensive tuning while monitoring everything vital (cylinder head temp, wideband oxygen measuring AFR, and exhaust gas temps). I smoked three sets of pistons over the whole course of testing. All failed under the same conditions (highway cruise) with the same symptoms (very scuffed piston skirts from expanding due to heat). I even dropped the tune down to OEM mild for the third set by going with flat top pistons (9.5:1 CR) with .003" clearance, an emissions cam (S&S520), and kept total timing at 26 degrees total advance and it still popped on the highway. My cruise AFR's were in the high 13's to 1. I made it just over 300 miles on the third build tho so I know what I did was helpful keeping the piston cooler. I'm convinced the Axtell cylinders didn't shed enough heat to keep the piston cool enough to not expand into the cylinder walls during peak torque. Piston oilers may have helped, but the OEM sized Evo case, even the one from S&S I used, don't have them. I'll be adding them to mine as I put this back together as well.
They might be a fine company, but both the builders I used to put this engine together couldn't shoot me straight on a possible cause so I turned into a bloodhound and solved it on my own.
Oh, and for what it's worth the same exact thing happened to my 88" Sportster build with Axtell cylinders back in 2010.
The cylinder would be bored to accept a sleeve, from L.A. Sleeve.
Super-nice cast iron material.
The process includes heating the undersized c/bored cylinder, and then you set the shouldered sleeve in place....quickly.
Trust me...once cooled, it is NOT coming out/moving unless it is machined.
Sleeved many, many, cylinders.
Scott
The cylinder would be bored to accept a sleeve, from L.A. Sleeve.
Super-nice cast iron material.
The process includes heating the undersized c/bored cylinder, and then you set the shouldered sleeve in place....quickly.
Trust me...once cooled, it is NOT coming out/moving unless it is machined.
Sleeved many, many, cylinders.
Scott
Is the shouldered sleeve mandatory? My logic tells me the Cometic head gasket will keep the sleeve from riding up so I was just looking at getting a perfect cylinder. Not to mention going with this size bore in a stock Evo cylinder stud pattern I'm worried the shoulder would protrude into the stud passage if it's too thick.
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