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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
The 22.5 degree spigot clearence angle cut, missed the deburring process.
With the use of a jewelers file, remove until smooth, but DO NOT roll the burr into the bore.
If you create a sharp edge, you remove the sharp edge, is one of the things I stressed when I was an instructor at a local vocational machine shop continuing education course.
Scott
The 22.5 degree spigot clearence angle cut, missed the deburring process.
With the use of a jewelers file, remove until smooth, but DO NOT roll the burr into the bore.
If you create a sharp edge, you remove the sharp edge, is one of the things I stressed when I was an instructor at a local vocational machine shop continuing education course.
Scott
So to remove the necessary metal to smooth the jagged edge, the bottom edge will no longer be level in those two areas by clearance cuts. They will show removal as I tried to illustrate below. Is that ok? Note I'm still waiting to hear from FuelMoto on what they want to do.
The line is the level of the base of the cylinder, showing what will be removed
Just spoke to FuelMoto, who naturally agreed with simply filing/sanding off the jags, away from the bore of course. So that's the plan.
I'll report back how it turns out.
Thanks a lot fort the expert feedback.
Just remember to file from the center out, you do not want any burs to be on the inside of the cylinder when finished. Just remember that thin sharp edges are where cracks will start.
Just remember to file from the center out, you do not want any burs to be on the inside of the cylinder when finished. Just remember that thin sharp edges are where cracks will start.
Just remember to file from the center out, you do not want any burs to be on the inside of the cylinder when finished. Just remember that thin sharp edges are where cracks will start.
I'd hit it with some 320 wet and dry, It's not a bad idea to run around the lead-in real quick as you don't want a burr scraping the oil off the piston. When doing cylinders, i use a plateau hone/ brush to remove remove peaks but it also knocks burrs off the lower edge of the cylinder. Have done a lot of 2 stoke cylinders in the past. Hone to size. chamfer ports with fine chainsaw file then a quick pass with a ball hone to smooth the filing.
I'd hit it with some 320 wet and dry, It's not a bad idea to run around the lead-in real quick as you don't want a burr scraping the oil off the piston. When doing cylinders, i use a plateau hone/ brush to remove remove peaks but it also knocks burrs off the lower edge of the cylinder. Have done a lot of 2 stoke cylinders in the past. Hone to size. chamfer ports with fine chainsaw file then a quick pass with a ball hone to smooth the filing.
I picked up a set of jewelers files to knock the peaks down and 320 and up w/d paper to smooth it out. But can you explain what the lead-in is? Im not a machinist.
I picked up a set of jewelers files to knock the peaks down and 320 and up w/d paper to smooth it out. But can you explain what the lead-in is? Im not a machinist.
It''s simply the chamfer at the base of the cylinder that helps to guide the rings into the cylinder during assembly. It runs all the way around the edge except for where that small cutaway is.
It''s simply the chamfer at the base of the cylinder that helps to guide the rings into the cylinder during assembly. It runs all the way around the edge except for where that small cutaway is.
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