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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Looks like the cam chain guide was on backwards...
You mean the black thing a ma jig on the right? . I have never seen catastophic damage like this in a TC before.
My buddies Road King,the shoe on the left came apart and made a squeal noise,then he took it to the dealer 1600 buck later had the screaming eagle hydraulic tensioner upgrade.
That's fugly. The OP should have listened and addressed the issue back in August when he first posted.: Why post and then ignore the feedback? Now, could be a complete rebuild if there was internal damage as jbarr1 has suggested. I doubt crank run out caused the issue but should certainly be checked now.
That's fugly. The OP should have listened and addressed the issue back in August when he first posted.: Why post and then ignore the feedback? Now, could be a complete rebuild if there was internal damage as jbarr1 has suggested. I doubt crank run out caused the issue but should certainly be checked now.
I should have made it clearer originally - my intention was always to carry the work out 'out of season'.... I had neither the time nor the money to do the work back in August, or I would have. My initial enquiry was to gauge opinion on the work that was needed.... also I ride in a club, so needed to use the bike. I had hoped (wrongly as it turns out) that the existing set up would at least see me out until October when i could take the bike off the road to do the work.
Originally Posted by jbarr1
Crankshaft runout. Probably has bent valves from hitting the pistons as well. Might get expensive.
Thanks Jbarr1 - I'll check runout then, and valves. I'll check that the push rods aren't bent when i get that far with the stripping, and obviously flush the system through.
Yikes. That is some gnarly damage. I've never seen one of those chains snap like that. Let alone be stretched to such a degree. I'm doing a top end on my bagger this winter that has close to 80k on the stock chains. After this post, I'll be inspecting them closely.
Well, i've stripped things down a bit further, and tbh i dont think it is quite as bad as it seemed. I've posted a couple of pics below... should have shown more before pics really... but apart from chunks of the Shoe material in the oil pan, there is very little metal anywhere - a little bit in the cam chest (which looks like parts of the cam cover - very small shavings, not many chunks as it were) but other than that there was just a little 'glitter' in the oil pan. the bearings have all stayed together, and looking at the cams below, i dont think they look too bad - just witness marks from use, but no chunks missing or anything.
getting the oil pan is very awkward, particularly without a bike lift.... just laid on garage floor lol. Even harder though, is scraping the OLD oil pan gasket off down there! lol.
For reference - i found taking off the rear brake push bar (dont know proper name!) made it easier to reach a couple of the hard to reach screws.
I still need to flush the oil lines if i can, too.
I've ordered a DTI which should be here this weekend, and i'll check the crankshaft runout for peace of mind. I've visually inspected the pushrods (rolled them on a flat surface) and they dont appear to be bent either.
Fingers crossed!!
The Cams... at this point, anyway... dont look as bad as they could do! cam case cleaned out.... just waiting on DTI to arrive to double check crankshaft runout. Oil pan much cleaner now than it was!
Although not mentioned, the inner cam chain tensioner is completely shot - and probably the chain also. If not replaced, the cam plate could use a cleaning and new bearings and make sure the oil pressure relief valve is free in the bore. Best check the oil pump gerotors for marks/cracks. I could go on but I think you get the idea...
Although not mentioned, the inner cam chain tensioner is completely shot - and probably the chain also. If not replaced, the cam plate could use a cleaning and new bearings and make sure the oil pressure relief valve is free in the bore. Best check the oil pump gerotors for marks/cracks. I could go on but I think you get the idea...
Hi Locomotion, you are right, the inner chain tensioner is gone too. I had ordered a new secondary chain when i ordered the screaming eagle kit - regardless of how the tensioner or chain was, replacing with new at this time seemed a sensible idea. The kit comes with a new oil pump, so all good there too.
My DTI arrived at the weekend, so i could check Crankshaft runout. I clocked it at the very end of the shaft (most outward point without flats) and quite impressed that it was only 0.0004... i was expecting worse!
I've removed the inner cam bearings now, but disappointed to see that the cam bearings included in the gasket kit are the INA ones! so i've discarded them, and ordered Torrington ones. In the meantime, ive fitted the external bearings into the new cam plate, along with the existing Cams.
If anyone else is following this thread with the intention to do this - the SE Hybrid kit Instructions say you need to purchase the Drive Gear Retention Kit separately - this is NOT the case now, as my Hybrid kit has these fixings included inside!
How did the project turn out? Did you get it all back together? Looks like you got super lucky that there was not more damage to the rest of the motor. I have an 03 Fatboy with a built 95" just crossed 40k miles. I took a look inside my cam chest a couple weeks ago and was very surprised to see little to no wear on the tensioner shoes. I believe the motor builder replaced the tensioners and polished the chains during the build at 15K mi. My 95" runs so quiet! way less top end clatter than my 103".
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Now, could be a complete rebuild if there was internal damage as jbarr1 has suggested. I doubt crank run out caused the issue but should certainly be checked now.
