Evo cam gear measurement
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Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 75
Likes: 24
From: SF Bay Area California
Seems like the S&S back plate is fed the breathers with tubes? This would still allow for the relocation kit and plugs for plate...yes?
unfortunately it's only for a S&S carb
I'm in California..lol.. so most carbs are not (CARB) compliant.
unfortunately it's only for a S&S carb
I'm in California..lol.. so most carbs are not (CARB) compliant.
Last edited by Ciddvicious; Apr 1, 2025 at 10:57 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 75
Likes: 24
From: SF Bay Area California
Are you talking about a bottom breather, cause if you are you have nothing to worry about. Your 94 is a top breather.
Also I've never installed the S&S reed valve, so no help there.
As for cam end play, as long as you have a couple of thousandths WITHOUT a cam cover gasket in place you'll be fine..
Also I've never installed the S&S reed valve, so no help there.
As for cam end play, as long as you have a couple of thousandths WITHOUT a cam cover gasket in place you'll be fine..
btw I have a '98 Fatboy. Not 94..
I Pulled rocker boxes and found that it had adjustable pushrods. So I expected to see possible cam replacement already, and yes..it had aftermarket cam
with end tag RC-1. Most I could out about it, is possible Rocket Cam, but no RC-1 seems to exist. Lol.
Any information would be nice, so I can mark a baseline for comparison of performance after build.
I also am thinking about putting in weisco pistons that I have, with stock heads? Or should i wait til i send my heads off this fall?
Thanks in advance!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,640
From: Poolville
It appears to have a bit of duration to it, you can measure the base circle and the entire lobe and subtract the base circle from the entire log to find out what lift it has for lift.
You can figure out the duration but you need to reinstall it back in the engine and with a degree wheel on the sprocket shaft find front cylinder tdc and then take your reading off IVO/IVC at the lifter with a dial indicator.
What was your engine compression before you took it apart..???
You can figure out the duration but you need to reinstall it back in the engine and with a degree wheel on the sprocket shaft find front cylinder tdc and then take your reading off IVO/IVC at the lifter with a dial indicator.
What was your engine compression before you took it apart..???
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 75
Likes: 24
From: SF Bay Area California
It appears to have a bit of duration to it, you can measure the base circle and the entire lobe and subtract the base circle from the entire log to find out what lift it has for lift.
You can figure out the duration but you need to reinstall it back in the engine and with a degree wheel on the sprocket shaft find front cylinder tdc and then take your reading off IVO/IVC at the lifter with a dial indicator.
What was your engine compression before you took it apart..???
You can figure out the duration but you need to reinstall it back in the engine and with a degree wheel on the sprocket shaft find front cylinder tdc and then take your reading off IVO/IVC at the lifter with a dial indicator.
What was your engine compression before you took it apart..???
My compression was 150
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,640
From: Poolville
That equates to .596" at the valve. What is the exhaust? Knowing both might help you to be able to Identify the cam.
With that said your motor must have had extensive head work.. I think you should take a look at the pistons and post up pics of the rockers and valve springs. But before you pull heads take a .030 feeler gauge and see if you can slip it in between the head and cylinder and keep increasing till you can't get one to fit like a .040" or something.
It would be interesting to know what else is in the motor... Like is it still a 4.25" set of wheels or a stroker..
With that said your motor must have had extensive head work.. I think you should take a look at the pistons and post up pics of the rockers and valve springs. But before you pull heads take a .030 feeler gauge and see if you can slip it in between the head and cylinder and keep increasing till you can't get one to fit like a .040" or something.
It would be interesting to know what else is in the motor... Like is it still a 4.25" set of wheels or a stroker..
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 75
Likes: 24
From: SF Bay Area California
That equates to .596" at the valve. What is the exhaust? Knowing both might help you to be able to Identify the cam.
With that said your motor must have had extensive head work.. I think you should take a look at the pistons and post up pics of the rockers and valve springs. But before you pull heads take a .030 feeler gauge and see if you can slip it in between the head and cylinder and keep increasing till you can't get one to fit like a .040" or something.
It would be interesting to know what else is in the motor... Like is it still a 4.25" set of wheels or a stroker..
With that said your motor must have had extensive head work.. I think you should take a look at the pistons and post up pics of the rockers and valve springs. But before you pull heads take a .030 feeler gauge and see if you can slip it in between the head and cylinder and keep increasing till you can't get one to fit like a .040" or something.
It would be interesting to know what else is in the motor... Like is it still a 4.25" set of wheels or a stroker..
Hard to find a spot for feeler, seems like a metal type gasket..probably close to .030
Last edited by Ciddvicious; Apr 8, 2025 at 07:21 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
You can swap cam gears without a press, if you have a freezer and an oven that is. Last time I did mine I sat the gear on a gas camping stove until it was "spit fizzle hot" and left the cam in the freezer for a few hours. then lined it up and dropped it in, smacked it fully home with a bronze hammer.