Metal in oil filter
Have one of the cleanable stainless mesh oil filters and upon changing oil and cleaning filter for winter storage found very small amount (at most 1/8 teaspoon) of small non magnetic metals in filter. Bike runs perfectly otherwise. Lots of oil pressure at hot idle and no strange noises (other than usual twin cam noise)
Am I loosing sleep over nothing or should I be pulling things apart this winter.
its a 107 build with about 10000 miles on the build. About 40000 miles on rest of bike.
Am I loosing sleep over nothing or should I be pulling things apart this winter.
its a 107 build with about 10000 miles on the build. About 40000 miles on rest of bike.
Have one of the cleanable stainless mesh oil filters and upon changing oil and cleaning filter for winter storage found very small amount (at most 1/8 teaspoon) of small non magnetic metals in filter. Bike runs perfectly otherwise. Lots of oil pressure at hot idle and no strange noises (other than usual twin cam noise)
Am I loosing sleep over nothing or should I be pulling things apart this winter.
its a 107 build with about 10000 miles on the build. About 40000 miles on rest of bike.
Am I loosing sleep over nothing or should I be pulling things apart this winter.
its a 107 build with about 10000 miles on the build. About 40000 miles on rest of bike.
Yes it is. Had multiple oil changes immediately after topend assembly (100,500 then 1000miles). Just had the cleanable oil filter for last 2 oil changes (2500 miles each)
its a 2010 touring 96 with wiesco 107 pistons.
clean up of heads .30 headgasket, 204 cams with high ratio rockers, adjustable pushrods and s&s lifters.
it was spotless clean on assembly (because I did it).
oil pump looked perfect (no scoring or wear)
runout was .002 if I remember right and it runs outstanding. Oil pressure at hot idle is 12 psi with mechanical guage.
Compression over 190psi for both cylinders.
I don’t like boroscopes ( wear always looks over dramatic through those things!)
Absolutely nothing wrong with the way it runs or sounds other than very small amount of yuck in filter.
its a 2010 touring 96 with wiesco 107 pistons.
clean up of heads .30 headgasket, 204 cams with high ratio rockers, adjustable pushrods and s&s lifters.
it was spotless clean on assembly (because I did it).
oil pump looked perfect (no scoring or wear)
runout was .002 if I remember right and it runs outstanding. Oil pressure at hot idle is 12 psi with mechanical guage.
Compression over 190psi for both cylinders.
I don’t like boroscopes ( wear always looks over dramatic through those things!)
Absolutely nothing wrong with the way it runs or sounds other than very small amount of yuck in filter.
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Here is my read.
Assuming the last 2 oil changes were good, nothing in the filter.
I don't think oil analysis are going to tell you anything except that the non magnetic stuff is 99% aluminum.
If the material is off the piston, you might see something stuck to the cylinders. You are right that posting a bore pic of any cylinder that has any kind of striping freaks out the audience. I'd expect that on the oil change the oil would be black. Leak test might show something. Typically a sized piston will knock tho. The 107 Wescos have skinny skirts and a seizure ought to make it knock pretty good when hot. They do tend to rattle a little when the motor is not up to temps tho. At least the ones I fit do.
The only other places the motor could shed aluminum would be the oil pump / cam plate and can bearings. If things were clean before, the crank may have shifted some. The shift caused wear in the oil pump.
Personally, unless you do a lot of touring and since you already done the oil change, I'd run it for a while, keep an eye on the oil and if anything appears odd, drop the oil and inspect.
One thing to note is that some early Wiseco pistons had issues. They used a 2mm oil control ring and probably due to the expander not having enough flex lengthwise, the 107 piston oil expander ring would either push between the lower rail and dig into the piston, or pop out and cut a groove in the cylinder. If you have the part number of the piston kit, you should be able to determine the piston you have. Later 107s got a 3mm oil ring groove. It also depends on when you built the motor and how long the piston kit was sitting on the shelf. IIRC they figured this stuff out late 2017.
Assuming the last 2 oil changes were good, nothing in the filter.
I don't think oil analysis are going to tell you anything except that the non magnetic stuff is 99% aluminum.
If the material is off the piston, you might see something stuck to the cylinders. You are right that posting a bore pic of any cylinder that has any kind of striping freaks out the audience. I'd expect that on the oil change the oil would be black. Leak test might show something. Typically a sized piston will knock tho. The 107 Wescos have skinny skirts and a seizure ought to make it knock pretty good when hot. They do tend to rattle a little when the motor is not up to temps tho. At least the ones I fit do.
The only other places the motor could shed aluminum would be the oil pump / cam plate and can bearings. If things were clean before, the crank may have shifted some. The shift caused wear in the oil pump.
Personally, unless you do a lot of touring and since you already done the oil change, I'd run it for a while, keep an eye on the oil and if anything appears odd, drop the oil and inspect.
One thing to note is that some early Wiseco pistons had issues. They used a 2mm oil control ring and probably due to the expander not having enough flex lengthwise, the 107 piston oil expander ring would either push between the lower rail and dig into the piston, or pop out and cut a groove in the cylinder. If you have the part number of the piston kit, you should be able to determine the piston you have. Later 107s got a 3mm oil ring groove. It also depends on when you built the motor and how long the piston kit was sitting on the shelf. IIRC they figured this stuff out late 2017.
Have the later 3mm oil ring pistons.
you are right, there is some noise cold until engine warms up.
once warm it sounds good.
i usually change oil between 2500 -3000 miles and the oil is never black. It gets dark but nowhere near car oil after 5000 miles.
Without the cleanable oil filter I wouldn’t even be thinking about this.
just that pinch of yuck making me sweat a bit.
don’t know if crank has shifted. No new vibrations and pressure is right where its been for life of the bike.
you are right, there is some noise cold until engine warms up.
once warm it sounds good.
i usually change oil between 2500 -3000 miles and the oil is never black. It gets dark but nowhere near car oil after 5000 miles.
Without the cleanable oil filter I wouldn’t even be thinking about this.
just that pinch of yuck making me sweat a bit.
don’t know if crank has shifted. No new vibrations and pressure is right where its been for life of the bike.
well, the filter comes with a warm and fuzzy green feeling, BUT,
these screens have been around for eons of time and are heavily used in the industrial world but they have a dark side, they accelerate wear. another feature is that as wear increases so does the need to service more. we had them and with monitoring systems, truth told, the factory filters out performed them but then again 70>90 bucks each and 7 to a pot. pay me now or pay me later. we wound up installing centrifuges if screens were used.
i will never use one that is for sure.
these screens have been around for eons of time and are heavily used in the industrial world but they have a dark side, they accelerate wear. another feature is that as wear increases so does the need to service more. we had them and with monitoring systems, truth told, the factory filters out performed them but then again 70>90 bucks each and 7 to a pot. pay me now or pay me later. we wound up installing centrifuges if screens were used.
i will never use one that is for sure.










