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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Installed Andrews 48 cams and feuling hp lifters 2 years ago. Adjusted se pushrods to .130 and have developed a bit of increasing valve train noise when shes hot. Wondering if perhaps a pr is loose or maybe bad lifter. How would I know if a pr was loose? Once on the base circle would there be up and down play in the rod? Just wondering if thered be an obvious tell tale sign. Regardless Im planning to check them and redo the adjustment anyway. Just wondering
also should I stick with the .130 or ? Feuling recommended .100
Installed Andrews 48 cams and feuling hp lifters 2 years ago. Adjusted se pushrods to .130 and have developed a bit of increasing valve train noise when shes hot. Wondering if perhaps a pr is loose or maybe bad lifter. How would I know if a pr was loose? Once on the base circle would there be up and down play in the rod? Just wondering if thered be an obvious tell tale sign. Regardless Im planning to check them and redo the adjustment anyway. Just wondering
also should I stick with the .130 or ? Feuling recommended .100
I had an adjustable pushrod come loose one time shortly after some engine work. It was not a gradual thing. Once the locknut loosened, it sounded like a can of bolts in a paint mixer. You could inspect your rocker boxes and consider installing 'rocker lockers' and of course the lifters could be suspect, especially if they've got some miles on them. Good luck tracking it down.
If a push rod was coming loose, you would know it; bike would be unrideable. Never been a fan of Fueling lifters; not sure who makes them but there are only 2 or 3 manufacturers that produce lifters. Cut to the chase and replace them with a set of Johnson Hy-Lifts from WFO Larry. .130" preload might be OK but many today are settng preload at .140"-.145". Spend a bit more for the lifters with pin oiling.
I have always set my lifters are .100 or as close as I can get since most lifters have .2 plunger travel. Why would you want to set at more than 1/2 depth?
I have always set my lifters are .100 or as close as I can get since most lifters have .2 plunger travel. Why would you want to set at more than 1/2 depth?
To minimize valve train lash and the accompanied noise. At .100" preload, some lifters cannot hold their "prime" under operating conditions and increasing preload makes it easier for lifters to maintain that primed condition.
If a push rod was coming loose, you would know it; bike would be unrideable. Never been a fan of Fueling lifters; not sure who makes them but there are only 2 or 3 manufacturers that produce lifters. Cut to the chase and replace them with a set of Johnson Hy-Lifts from WFO Larry. .130" preload might be OK but many today are settng preload at .140"-.145". Spend a bit more for the lifters with pin oiling.
yes, at the time I thought about the hylifts too but was getting all my bits from one source and it was easier. Was originally getting s&s premium but due supply issue opted for the feuling. (Hadn’t heard anything negative) if I end up replacing them I will contact Larry for sure.
preload from .130 to .140 make that much difference? (Djl you answered that question above, thanks)
thanks for your input
I had an adjustable pushrod come loose one time shortly after some engine work. It was not a gradual thing. Once the locknut loosened, it sounded like a can of bolts in a paint mixer. You could inspect your rocker boxes and consider installing 'rocker lockers' and of course the lifters could be suspect, especially if they've got some miles on them. Good luck tracking it down.
thanks , lockers went in with cams and lifters. Not many miles on lifters. Ill start with checking pr adjustment and go from there.
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