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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Question time, I've rebuilt my 99 EVO engine and I'm installing (trying to) Andrews adjustable pushrods. My problem is, in every video I've watched on YouTube I can't seem to find a definitive answer.
Whenever the pushrods are installed, they have a bleed down time of whatever minutes before final adjustments.
My engine is built from the ground up so there's no oil in the motor apart from the assembly lube, so in effect there's no bleed down. So do I take the tappet position on the base circle as final or is there some other method of adjustment?
thanks in advance.
With the cam on the base circle of the push rod you are adjusting, new or old lifter, run the adjuster down until you just get rid of any up and down movement.That is your starting point, where the lifter has not been collapsed yet. Start your turns outlined in the push rod, and or, lifter manufacturer. Different thread pitch rods, have different amount of turns, as well as some lifter suppliers looking for a certain push rod depth.You need that info before adjusting anything. Once you have completed the requisite number of turns, lock the rod down, and wait, until you can spin the rod between your fingers without much effort. This is the point where the lifter has collapsed. You are now safe to rotate the engine and move on to the next push rod.
I'm using the old lifters as the engine only had 1300 miles on it when I bought it. The push rods are brand new as it didn't come with any.
What I'm trying to figure out is, as the tappets are not pre soaked and just have assembly lube on, there is no real bleed down time so shall I take it as ready for the final adjustment?
I'm using the old lifters as the engine only had 1300 miles on it when I bought it.
Then there is a fair chance the lifters still have oil in them from being used for 1300 mi.
My idea would be to adjust the push rod till no slack is felt. Then adjust as per instructions of the kind off adj push rods you have.
Wait 15 min and ck that you can turn the push rod with finger tips easily enough.
Then go the next push rod as per instructions.
Which Andrews push rods do you have ?
Then there is a fair chance the lifters still have oil in them from being used for 1300 mi.
My idea would be to adjust the push rod till no slack is felt. Then adjust as per instructions of the kind off adj push rods you have.
Wait 15 min and ck that you can turn the push rod with finger tips easily enough.
Then go the next push rod as per instructions.
Which Andrews push rods do you have ?
the free spin method worked good for the non adjustable but you have hydraulic
also depends upon what you want to accomplish
the best method is to go base circle and let stand 15>30 minutes but you can always check by slacking the adjustment and check for ease of collapse.
if you want hydraulic, at base circle and lifter plunger up, adjust till there is resistance with the p/r and then add .050 of collapse, you can use .030. reason: well you want to assure that the plunger never contacts the retainer clip.
if you want to go a solid like p/r you do the same above on the collapse but then base circle and 6>8 flats up. if you want to know tappet clearance, use the TPI for the thread count and multiply times rocker ratio.
i run lifter spacers and run just enough clearance to quite the valve train. the only disadvantage is you have to check adjustment regularly.
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Adjustable Pushrods
