Hello all,
I am having a few upgrades installed on my '07 EGC. it already had a high flow air cleaner, Reinhardt True Duals,
(O2 sensors were removed by previous owner when the "Stage one" was installed),
and a PC3 controller.
The PC3 in now replaced with with a new Power Vision 1B, and new map from FM, to accommodate the Wood TW-222 cams going in.


After getting the TW-222 cams, and FM's Power Vision map installed, we were getting a check engine light and a 1353 code. (Front cyl combustion code). Bike idled fine, and ran "OK" up to about 4000-4200 and then started to stumble/gargle/ ran like crap. Also, the brand new spark plugs showed fouling/black deposits.

After a few conversations with the gentleman doing the install, he agreed to pull open the cam chest to verify the cams were installed correctly,... at which point, we determined, that he had in fact, installed the forward cam "one tooth off". (Yeah not good, but "it can happen").

as of last night, it is now getting corrected, and it should be back together in the next day or two.

So my questions now are,

Do you think that there is a chance of damage to the engine that I will need to check for ?
if so, what should I check ?

Compression check is showing 200 and 210 psi, so I don't "think" there will be a bad/bent valve issue.

is there anything else that I need to have him check and verify ?


The other upgrades getting installed at this time is:
Pro Action fork kit,
Ultra Cool 3.0 Dual Fan oil cooler, (I live in East Valley Arizona) so it get DANG Hot here.
in dash Oil Temp Gauge
1 1/2 " front fuel tank lift

Thank you for any replies and advice
Cheers

 

I didn't see how long you ran the bike, but if the compression is good on the cylinder with the cam timing off it should be fine.

I'd correct the cam timing and see how it runs and sounds. And if everything sounds good, after 100 miles or so I'd check the compression and plugs again.

Paul

 

I did this on my sporty years ago(4 gear drive cams). Exhaust valve was smacking the piston on start up. Even put a little ding in the top of the piston. But it was a direct hit. Didn't bend the push rod or the valve. I confirmed this by pulling the head and with the valves closed I confirmed it was seating square with a liquid test. Threw it all back together. Ran it, did a compression test, and both cylinders came back at 205psi.
I did sand the sharp edge of the ding in that piston to avoid a hot spot. Never gave it another thought. Did 90/90 in a 1250 build.
​

 

I am pretty sure you will be fine. Either by the fact that you corrected it or the installer will need to ante-up and make good on the mistake.

Just one point: Those true duals (Rinehart Xtreme ?) are a very poor choice for the TW222. Heck, really any true duals are not the best choice.

 

well, you may be right about the Rienharts. They were already on the bike when I bought it 2 years ago.
I believe they are the 3.5 classics.
BUT,...
When I was talking to Bob at Wood, as well as FM about buying the cams kit,
They both said that as long as I have the stock 96" pistons/compression, that the True Duals will be fine with the high flow air filter and 222 cams.
I dunno, but I feel that they certainly know more about it than I do... so for now, they will stay on.
( at least until my piggy bank can recover from all the goodies that just went on).

 

Not entirely true. The Bassani Pro Streets will do as well or better than most 2in1s or 212s out there. This has been proven more than once. I agree about the Rinefarts tho. Most TDs do suck. But not all.
Proper length, diameter, and placement of steps is the difference.
FM actually sells them now, btw.
Below is a link with a direct comparison on the same bike belonging to djl and tuned by Nick at Shamrock. It's why I chose them in my 107 build doing 127/126. Like djl, I don't care for the looks, sound, and hiway drone of a 2in1.
There is only one 98 build I know of making more power than this one.
​​​
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...l#post21556070

 

no worries

 

Hey all, (this is a Long Read),

I figured I should do a follow up on my (still going) "little saga".
(yep, I've got a couple "new issues" now) GRrrr !

So he got the cam timing issue straightened out and I picked up the bike yesterday afternoon.

there is certainly a big increase in the bottom mid torque, and it pulls much harder at 2000+rpm (and Especially so, after about 3000 rpm).
The bike is significantly Quicker accelerate, and the top speed is certainly increased too, (although conditions only allowed me to take it up to about 110mph).

Now with that being said, I'll admit, that I was expecting it to pull harder than it does, after reading all I could find on the 222 cams.
And to be fair here,... Sure, I may have just been fantasizing it to be more than it is (?), I dunno.

so anyway, I'll move on to the "New issues" I am now seeing.

I wish I would have payed a little more attention to the tachometer at the higher speeds, but I can do that in the next few days.
SOooo, I can only relate this reply in terms of speed right now.

The work I had done also included the Fork Kit from ProAction, and I will say, WOW ! WHAT A DIFFERENCE THAT MADE in Greatly Improved Handling at higher speeds !

So I pick up the bike to bring it home and I'm obviously excited to get it back.

The place That did the work is about 35 miles from my place, and the freeway has a few miles of nice looonng sweeping turns, all basically flat and level for the most part.
( for anyone familiar with the PHX area, It's the east bound 202 between Peoria and Mesa).

I've ridden this section of road several times and am quite familiar with it.

Prior to doing the Pro Action fork kit, the bike would comfortably take these turns up to about 80mph. above that, it felt a bit less stable, and wasn't real "solid" feeling... So I would not "push it" much beyond that.

Now, with the Pro action kit installed, I was just going by how it "Felt" in the turns, and I wasn't paying close attention to the actual speed in the moment.
I was just going by how it felt.
So after the first couple of long sweeping turns and the bike feeling much more solid, I rolled into the next turns a it harder.
I thought I was maybe doing 85-90.
I looked down at the speedo, and to my surprise, it was topping 100mph ! (102 actually).
I thought to myself,...Whoa ! Baby,... lets calm it down a bit here !

The suspension is now everything I could have hoped for, and, as described by several of you here.

So I get through the sweepers, and into some straights.
Lets see what the cams are going to do for acceleration .

I slow it down to 55-60ish, and I roll on pretty hard and start banging gears.
Before the 222 cams, the bike would easily roll up to 85-90, and you could feel it starting to lose its rate of acceleration. Yeah, it would eventually go up to around 106-108, but it didn't really feel "happy" pushing it further.

Now, with the new cams in... Holy Smokes !
It'll roll right past 110 and is still pulling rather hard with plenty of throttle left to go.
When I saw it hit 112-113 with no indication of running out of steam, that when I said "OK, that's plenty good enough for today", and I backed it back down to 70-75.

A couple of more miles and I'm lining up for my off ramp.
I hit the off ramp and pull in the clutch to coast, and it immediately stalls once it gets down to about 1100rpm.
I re-start it, and it stalls again.
I get to the light, re-start again, and the only way to keep it running is to keep feathering the throttle.
It's 2 miles from the freeway to my place, and it would stall at every light, (if I let it).
I fiddle with the throttle, holding it at 1100-1200 rpm, the rest of the way home, and it stalls in the driveway when I tried to let it idle.
I re-start it 2 or 3 more times, and same thing.

I sit down, open a beer, and give it a 2 or 3 minutes, and I call the guy who did the work.
While on the phone, I go start the bike, and it idles just fine as it should do.
I turn it off and re-start it 2 or 3 more times, and it idles fine.
I have no explanation for this.

We do a on-board diagnostic and we get a "U1016" fault code.
gotta go do some homework now.

About an hour later, (bike is fully cooled down), I ride to my Legion Post to watch the game.
Post is 5 miles away with at least 8-9 stop lights.
It never stalled once, and I'm fairly sure it was not completely up to temp.
after the game, it ran strong and fine, (no stalling), all the way home.

The bike has Never stalled on me prior to doing these upgrades.

I do realize that I should probably get it up to full temp again, run it hard again, and see if I can duplicate the stalling issue.

What are your thoughts ?
any suggestions on what I should investigate now ?

thanks for any replies,
Cheers !

2007 Electra Glide Classic FLHTC
hi flow air filter, true dual 3.5 Rinehart, Wood TW-222 cams, Power Vision tuner, FM Map, Pro-Action fork kit, Ultra Cool 3.0 Oil Cooler, HD Oil Temp gauge in dash, anti Death Wobble devise from Dennis Kirk, (and a bunch of other little stuff too).

 

Only spitballin here.

1. Clogged injector that cleaned itself?
2. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
3. Fuel filter is 17 years old, how many miles on it and how much fuel has gone through it?
4. Might be a tuner/tune issue.

 

Is the bike still a 96"?