1999 FXDX with 14k miles. It has a Screamin Eagle Mikuni Carb, Screamin Eagle coil, Crane Fireball ignition, SuperTrapp exhaust and Andrews cams which I do not have the specs on. Still has the stock tensioners (which I checked at 10k miles and they still look great (including the back one). Took a gamble with this one since I am not completely sure of all the engine specs (owner passed away). It is at least a Stage 2.... could even be a 95".... bike pulls hard.

When I first bought the bike last year, it had the Screamin Eagle intake which did not have an external breather. After long rides, the bottom of the air filter would be wet with oil, sometimes even dripping.

I removed that intake setup and installed a similar Arlen Ness setup with external breathers. I had both hoses connect to a Tee fitting and then a hose that dumped under to the rear of the bike. Oil would spray all over the rear of the tire.... no good.

I installed a catch-can but oil (more like a milky substance) spills out of it.

Many suggested upgrading the breather assemblies since the bike is old and it had the older style assemblies. I installed the newer breather assemblies today (with the shorter bolts). The old assemblies didn't look bad, the umbrellas were still pliable.... the foam pieces were a bit brittle however. I didn't drill out the drain holes. I wanted to try new breathers first.

I went for a 30 mile ride and still have liquid (milky substance) coming out of the top of the catch can. I checked the oil level right after the ride.... 1/2 way up the dip stick on the jiffy stand.

Bike runs great otherwise. With the catch can it at least keeps it all off the tire/under the bike but I would think that can should be collecting it all? The can isn't filling up with oil.... I think the pressure coming out of that hose is so high that it is spilling out the top faster than it can collect.

What are my next steps here? I'm thinking either live with it, or try a bigger catch-can

 

A bigger catch can is not the answer.

There should not be a lot of oil blowing out the breathers.

I think you should perform a compression test.

 

Will do. I'm also going to dig back into the rocker box. I want to drill out those drain holes to .125". Reading they have helped a lot.... wish I did it when I installed the new breathers. New gaskets on order... and going to install Rocker Lockers this go around. Figured I start with just the new breathers but this will be level 2...

At least now I know how easy it is to take off the rocker box covers!

 

Unfortunately drilling bigger drain holes is still not the answer. There is a root cause for the excessive pressure, most likely blow by due to rings not sealing. You might end up drilling bigger holes in the cylinders instead

 

very excellent replies!!!!
bigger is not necessarily better, the same with carbs. R&D stipulates a fixed size orifice so that is what they put. however, when the system is taxed beyond it design parameters, some is going to give.
compression test is good but a leak down would be my first choice. if the numbers are not right, a bore scope of the cylinder would be next. you did not mention how many miles. also of concern is how they were put there.
also your riding style, the hd engine will go to a positive pressure around 5k and hence the beginning of pooling of the crankcase.
any previous top end you know of???? the evo is not as forgiving as the ole cast iron machines and if not done right, will not last. say if some one threw new rings with a large bore taper, the rings will self destruct in short order.

 

When you ride the bike, how far do you travel? What are the riding conditions? If you are only going a few miles it may be normal. If further, you may need to perform a leakdown test. If you have a cheap borescope you can examine the cylinder bores. With the aftermarket parts, maybe too much timing and too much fuel has worn the cylinders.. Poor breakin?

 

I prefer a compression test over a leakdown test.

The leakdown only gives you information on the piston ring to cylinder seal condition in one location, the compression test moves the rings along the cylinder the entire operating range.

 

Sad to see the compression test results. After another good ride today I came home and did a compression test. Engine hot. Throttle wide open. Cranked until the readings stabilized:

190 psi Rear
175 psi Front

Adding oil to the front cylinder brings the reading up to about 200 psi

I am surprised how well the bike runs (minus the blow by) with those readings. Both plugs look fine/not oil fouled.

The gamble to buying a bike modded with no paperwork.

I bought it with 5k. It now has 14k. Someone was in the motor due to the Andrews cams. I suspect higher compression as well since hot starts sometimes cause a kickback (retarding the Fireball 1 degree helped).

Still has the stock tensioner setup.... may be looking into a 95" kit sooner than I thought....

I am going to try getting a scope into the cylinder to investigate further.

 

While I prefer compression over leak also, I do think in the case of grey poupon bleeding problems, a leak test can show up issues with the rings no matter the position in the cylinder.. When doing a compression test, up to the first 1/3 of the stroke can have the valve open. The next 1/3 pressure is still very low and the last 1/3 is the most critical.. If the cylinder is worn from excessive richness, the wear will typically be in the middle 1/3.. While leak is typically a TDC or close to TDC test, I think it's more sensitive if the rings are worn..

I typically say if you want to take the motor apart, do a leak test..

 

What is wrong with 175-190 CCP?

Toss that catch can.

The moisture from inside the engine is expelled with the hot air coming out the breathers, unless you trap it with a can.

Don`t be obsessive about oil level, let it go down (within reason of course), it may stop when it gets to a certain level.