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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Just a little update, I have the bike mechanically about 95% back together. One thing of concern and more so because this is my first time tearing into a harley motor. I did use the FM adjustable push rods, took out the lash and gave them 4 turns as per instructions. Initially they would not spin by hand after the 4 turns but, maybe a minute later they would. I used an oil can to pump up the lifters and soaked them in a tub of oil after that before putting them in the bike. So I'm hoping that I didn't make any mistakes. On the positive side, I did a compression test after getting it buttoned up and I have 180 psi on both cylinders.
If you had piston at TDC on the compression stroke, you are OK. If you get some valve train noise, you might need to increase preload by a few flats. IIRC, FM pushrods set preload at about .100" at 4 turns but not sure. Most of us are setting preload at .125"-.135". 180psi is much better than 125.
Bike is back together and runs considerably better with the exception of the clutch is now slipping. I did swap bars while it was apart, so with that. I did open the primary derby cover and turn the adjustment screw in by hand and then lock the nut back down. I then adjusted the clutch cable to where it just took the slop out of the clutch lever.
Well I adjusted the clutch again today, because I messed up the adjustment yesterday. Anyway it is much better but still slipping some. I am very happy with the tw-222 cams.
The clutch, I'm not sure if I need an aftermarket spring or an aftermarket spring and clutch pack. There was some material on the drain plug magnet when I changed the primary fluid. The Ultra has 30,000 miles and it did have a trailer hitch on it when I bought it. So I really would not be surprised if the clutches are worn pretty good.
If after inspecting / replacing the clutch plates and you still have some slip, maybe look at one of the earlier model or the SE clutch spring. The data below I haven't personally measured, but I believe it to be accurate.
Ohio HD thank you for the information. I think for the money. When I tear into the primary, I will put the SE spring in. I wouldn't want to spend the money on the fluid again on top of the cost of the spring. I think for $45.00 I will just change it since I will be in there anyway. What is the general opinion on the SE clutch pack?
Jeff
Last edited by wvmedic31; Mar 28, 2024 at 03:11 PM.
I'm running an SE spring in my 2009 Ultra, 96", Andrews 48 cams, makes 93 HP and 106 FT LBS. The clutch plates are still original and it holds just fine.
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