Engine Mechanical Topics Discussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.

CAM INSTALL ISSUES

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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 06:27 PM
  #41  
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You can do it.
we all started somewhere.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 06:28 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by blackjeep
You can do it.
we all started somewhere.
Hehehe thank you 😁
 
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 07:00 PM
  #43  
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Good luck listening to this idiot. I have built dozens of motors with success. Running the starter without the plugs in will do zero damage. I sent you a PM and have tried to help. You seem like you have done a good job. I would not trust a dealership with changing my oil. So, you have been given some sage advise, you are almost there.
More than likely what you are hearing is the lifters pumping up. Did you pre oil the lifters? If not, they need oil pressure for a minute to get pumped up. If you did the turns on the pushrods as per instructions and on TDC that is not the issue. Lifters need oil IMHO.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 07:39 PM
  #44  
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Don't run a starter for over 20 seconds at a time, even with the spark plugs removed from the engine, without giving it a rest of a couple of minutes, otherwise the armature, field coils, and the solenoid windings will overheat. The starter is completely enclosed with no cooling fan and meant to be used for intermittent duty. How do I know? I worked in the industry for 19 years.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 07:49 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Bart2112
Lol, I have torqued the jesus nut before. Did depot level maintenance. Fun times but I enjoyed flying them more 🤣.

Dannnnnng so dinging a piston with a valve. Stupid question, but if that did happen with my current issue, should I do something to inspect for damage or readjust pushrods correctly this time and run it?

Can't thank everyone enough on this forum for the help and being so position and supportive with their answers.
If you adjusted the pushrods "by the book" no issue. If a piston had made contact with a valve while adjusting pushrods, you would know it, would have felt it. Stay focused on the task at hand.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 10:58 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Bart2112
Merry Christmas to you all. I have a few questions about the cam I installed. I have a 2010 Dyna Superglide with a 96 engine, Stage 1 intake and Vance and Hines Straight shot slip Ons. I used an FP3 to tune it.



I installed a Woods TW-222 cam, S&S precision lifters, and Fuel Moto adjustable pushrods. I also replaced both inner cam bearings.



I took my time over the past two days disassembling and reassembling the bike. I used my and a combination of manufacturer's instructions and videos as well. I installed the cams and set the timing, marks on the cam and crank sprocket matched up. Installed the lifters correctly and followed the correct procedures when adjusting the pushrods. I reinstalled the exhaust, foot brake lever, O2 sensor, spark plugs and wires.



When I started it, the exhaust tone is rough now and I noticed more sound coming from the top end. Honestly it kind of freaked me out so I only let it idle for less than 30 seconds. The engine or oil light did not come on after I started it and it did crank right over. No oil leaks and it wasn't smoking or doing anything out of the ordinary besides more top end noise and the exhaust tone was rough.



I understand, that going to a higher lift cam, the tone will be different. I uploaded my ECU to Vance and Hines with all of my bike's engine parameters, but they won't be back from Christmas break until January 5th.



Did I screw something up or will this smooth out with letting the components break in and uploading a tune to match my components. I really didn't know if I was doing any damage, that is why I cut it off and didn't attempt to ride it. I am praying I didn't hurt the engine.



I greatly appreciate any and all help/advice. Have a Merry Christmas.
I put the same cams in my 2014 FXDL several years back, loaded in a tune from Fuel Moto. When I first started it and the lifters quit clattering it had a rougher idle, first thing I thought was did not time the cams correct but then had a WHAT A DUMB *** MOMENT and realized I had installed different cams then stock is reason for rougher idle. Has had over 30k miles with the 222's, they do make a bit more top end sound but you should have nothing to worry about.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 08:06 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Tommy C
Don't run a starter for over 20 seconds at a time, even with the spark plugs removed from the engine, without giving it a rest of a couple of minutes, otherwise the armature, field coils, and the solenoid windings will overheat. The starter is completely enclosed with no cooling fan and meant to be used for intermittent duty. How do I know? I worked in the industry for 19 years.

30 seconds max.. it's a lot longer than you think.. with a minimum of 5 minutes between..
 
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 08:51 AM
  #48  
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tagged in for interest. good luck.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 07:42 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
Your front pushrods may be loose. This is how the dots line up when on tdc compression for the front.

I have another question for you. Would you ride the bike without the new tune being installed?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2024 | 11:44 AM
  #50  
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If it were me, I would not ride the bike until you get the proper tune installed as it will run like crap. Sometimes, a little patience is a good thing. You can fire it up and it should idle reasonably okay to check for oil leaks etc. but better to wait for the proper tune before actually riding it. The exhaust note is going to sound different because of the new cam profile.

As already stated numerous times, double check your pushrod adjustment. If you got the front cylinder pushrod adjustment wrong ie the lifter was on the lobe vs the base circle of the cam, the worst that would happen is the pushrod would be too short when running and result in a lot of noise but no actual damage. If not done already, you can easily open up the front pushrod tubes and check for vertical play in the pushrods with the front cylinder on top dead center of the compression stroke.

Its also important after installing and adjusting pushrods (after waiting the appropriate time for lifters to bleed down if necessary) to roll the motor through a few revolutions by hand using the rear wheel. This way you can feel if things turn smoothly and make sure that nothing goes "clunk" prior to hitting the starter button.

The exhaust note will be much raspier with aftermarket cams but if you are getting excessive lifter clatter from the engine, that definitely sounds like a pushrod adjustment issue. I just installed a RS468 cam in my M8 two days ago. I used the kit from Fuel Moto that came with S&S precision lifters and Fuel Moto adjustable pushrods. I adjusted the pushrods 3 1/2 turns from zero lash as per the instructions that came with the kit. I did not pump up the lifters with oil before installation as they came sealed in an oil filled bag. I did however disable the fuel pump and cranked the engine over for about twenty seconds (with spark plugs still out) to ensure oil pressure light went out and to pre-lube everything before starting. My engine fired right up with absolutely no clattering from the valve train. That being said, I have installed other cams in past years where it took a minute or two for the lifters to pump up and stop clattering after initial start up.

Let us know how you make out with double checking the pushrod adjustment.
 
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