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Head bolt over torque

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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 07:25 AM
  #11  
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I've reused many MLS head gaskets even with over 1000 miles on them. Just need to copper coat them with Permatex Copper Coat Spray.

Yours being brand new, if MLS, will not be an issue to loosen and retorque properly.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 09:15 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by MitchellC
Concerned about stretching my studs .
This is very highly unlikely either

WP
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MitchellC
No it calls for the final 1/4 turn but I noticed my mistake before I did the final 1/4 turn
Originally Posted by Schex
If you didn't add the 90° turn yet, loosen and torque to 17, then + 90°
^^^^
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 11:57 AM
  #14  
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the torque+angle came about as gasket technology improved and as newer engine designs came about. the days of olden, most everything was over-kill and torque to yield was the thing. nowday, everything is engineered, good or bad, hummmmm?!?
today to save weight, the torque+angle solves some issues like reducing the amount of fasteners to get the job done.
the angle part is most important because unlike torque, NOT friction originated. the fastener is preloaded via a torque value and friction is the key and it varies upon several things like lube, fastener material and quality of the threading and more importantly the yahoo turning the wrench. as you found out, human error is a difficult thing to control especially with the diff torque tools. offshore when precision was needed, was done with hydraulics.
the angle of the dangle is easier to control. since friction is out the door, final setting is more accurate as far as clamping forces through out the assy.
did your gasket have a crush ring? if so, then it is a crap shoot, but if not then you can get away with a re-torque. matter of fact, some assy require such action before final setting.
remember, bird in hand rule. if in doubt, do it right while everything is accessible, better than a tear down later on.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 12:33 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by MitchellC
No it calls for the final 1/4 turn but I noticed my mistake before I did the final 1/4 turn
You are fine! Just start the process over
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 12:50 PM
  #16  
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I set the torque wrench at 38 - 40 ftlbs when doing the 1/4 turn on stock gaskets, I want it to click at or near the end of the rotation.

On MLS gaskets, I mark the bolts at the 14 ftlb step, when you get to the final 42 ftlbs step, the marks should all end up very close to the same rotation, usually a little over 1/4 turn on those.

It helps to detect if there's a problem with a bolt or stud using either method.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 07:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MitchellC
Well accidentally torqued my final head torque on my TC 96B to 22 ft lbs. instead of 17. no 1/4 turn index .Anyone done this before and not had issues?
Concerned about stretching my studs or blowing out my fire ring .
You are seriously under-torqued at 22. I have built hundreds of these and regularly did the initial two torques, then 35, loosen and redo to second 15-17 and then the 90 degree. This is great for setting the gaskets - especially OEM style composite. Final torque after the 90 degree turn is in the 40 range. Just loosen it so you can torque to the 15-17 and do the final 90 degree turns.
 

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Jan 20, 2025 at 07:31 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 07:25 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
I've reused many MLS head gaskets even with over 1000 miles on them. Just need to copper coat them with Permatex Copper Coat Spray.

Yours being brand new, if MLS, will not be an issue to loosen and retorque properly.
Hylomar works also...
 
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