reading some instructions and one page says "(be careful the engine is not in the overlap cycle)."

can someone explain what overlap cycle is? Bike's a 94 softail and came with fixed pushrods so no mention of adjustment in the manual.

 

Four stroke engine. The piston sits all the way up in cylinder TWICE per cycle. Once is TDC, and that is on top of combustion stroke. But there is also the top of exhaust stroke where the exhaust valve can be closing and the intake opening at the same time. AT TDC BOTH valves are closed.

Spark plug fires every other revolution on a four stroke. The top of exhaust stroke is the overlap... the valves overlap in operation.

 

ok...kinda gettin it. Sorry...totally new to this. Lots to learn

so...when I previously adjusted my pushrods, and simply watched each one, waited for it to hit the low spot, then adjusted it, I likely didn't do it right then?

 

" While watching straw come up, also watch the valve actions. If the intake was last valve to move AND both look closed, THAT is TDC. If the exhaust was closing while you spun the tire... you are on 'overlap' stroke when starw is all the way up."

Ok...to repeat...

intake, then both closed is TDC. Couldn't I just pull the view plug and look for front cylinder TDC? I guess there's no real cylinder TDC mark though, is there.

 

with the sparkplugs out..put your finger over the hole..while turning back wheel..i know long reach.lol..get a helper..when it blows stop..make sure it is blowing and not sucking..you are then on the compression stroke..put the straw in..make sure its a long one..slowly bump the tire in a forward rotation..watch the straw push out or go in..you want it to rise and stop for a second that is TDC..both valves are closed..if you go past just bump wheel backwards and start over..if you have solid pushrods how are you adjusting them..?

 

trying to clarify...isn't there only one point in the cycle that both valves would be closed, so if you just watch for both pushrods to be down then you're OK?

I don't have solid pushrods. PO put adjustables in there.

 

damn close to positive something's wrong now

got front cylinder to TDC, even opened view plug just to check and yup there's the hash mark. Now I understand the cycle after watching the pushrods move.

anyway...so I started with the front cylinder exhaust. Couldn't think why it would matter if exhaust or intake first...does it?

again, anyway...front cylinder exhaust, tightened pushrod to zero lash, waited til it turned freely, then went 3 turns and one flat (32tpi)...

just out of curiosity, I came back literally a minute later and the pushrod already turned freely.

I know that's supposed to happen, but that fast? Doesn't that mean the lifter is bad?

 

alright, that's it. I've had enough

adjusted the pushrods exactly correctly. Bike fired up...still fckin clatters like mad and now?

OIL ALL OVER THE GOD DAMN PLACE

looks to me like it's the front tube leaking at the top. Can't get in there cuz everything's too hot right now, but...

anyone else know what it feels like to have everything you touch deteriorate?

 

[QUOTE=JustDave71;6868035]alright, that's it. I've had enough

adjusted the pushrods exactly correctly. Bike fired up...still fckin clatters like mad and now?

OIL ALL OVER THE GOD DAMN PLACE

looks to me like it's the front tube leaking at the top. Can't get in there cuz everything's too hot right now, but...

anyone else know what it feels like to have everything you touch deteriorate?[/QUOTE


Did you ever figure out the problem? In the same boat rn.

 

Did you get the old O-Ring out? Is the surface clean and free of crud and corruption? Is the new o-ring seating on the tube correctly?