OK, here's a simple one for most of you cats out there. I have a 2001 FLSTFI about 9 years ago I had an 95CI upgrade done by a reputable indy in my hood. Along with the upgrade I had them put a set of HD grooved push rods covers. For the past 2 seasons I've notice that they are pitting and flaking. I want to change them and put back the originals that I still have. They're telling me that I need to get an adjustable push rod kit for my model, to make the R&R simple, that the original covers won't work with adjustable. My question is which set is the best for the job, and how simple of a job is it? I'm pretty good with mechanical stuff, but not to much in internal engine components. Perhaps this is just a brain fart of a job, or perhaps not. Can any one shed some light on this? I would appreciate the help. Thanks, Jazz

 

Jazz, in order to replace your pushrod covers, you have to remove your pushrods. There are two ways to go about this:
1: Remove your rocker boxes and lift the pushrods out, making sure you mark which hole they came out of so you can reinstall them in their original hole. Once they are out you can put new tubes in. Then drop in your stock pushrods and replace your rocker boxes.
2: Cut your existing pushrods out with a bolt cutter. Replace your tubes. Install a set of EZ-install pushrods.

#1 is less expensive as all you'll need is a new set of rocker box gaskets for around $30, but it takes a lot more time.

#2 is quicker, but a set of EZ-install pushrods will run you over $125.00. The new pushrods will have detailed instructions as to how to do the adjustments on them. It isn't hard if you take your time and let the lifters bleed down properly. I used HD Screamin Eagle rods in my EVO when I replace the cam. They are as good as any.

 

S&S adjustable's are a well used name brand. I have S&S in mine, but there are some other good recommendations out there and some folks will be making suggestions. Smith Brothers is another one that comes to mind.

For my 2-cents worth....unless you have some sort of issue in the top end that needs addressing, whack the old rods out with bolt cutters and go back in with adjustable rods. This will allow you the opportunity to do things down in the cam chest in the future without having to yank all the stuff off the top of the motor.

You will need a set of early (EVO-style) pushrod covers, which can be had off places like e-bay for around $60. You have to use this type to get enough slack in the tubes to be able to make the rod adjustments.

I agree the most economical way is like mentioned above, which is removal of the rocker box covers, etc. and re-install your stock rods. However...it is a lot more labor intensive than the installation of the adjustables and there is always the chance of a leak up there afterward.

I have one more suggestion....go ahead and purchase a push-rod cover removal/installation tool. You may have to go back in and tweak your rod adjustment. You can skin your knuckles, or scrape the finish off your cooling fins (or worst case break one) using a screwdriver. People that do this on a routine basis can do it with a screwdriver and some even by hand if you're built like Godzilla. It's another $50-or-so for a good tool, but I think it's worth the money.

 

Thanks for the suggestions on the R&R. However, I don't have the stock push rods. Those were reused during the upgrade. What I have is the the stock covers, which are not good for the adjustable PR's, from what I was told. They also told me that they sell the kit, meaning adjustable PR's and covers for the 2001 twin cam. Is this true? If the R&R is not so cmplicated then perhaps I can do the job. omgtkk, what did you mean by letting the lifters bleed down properly? And also, would I have to make adjustments to the PR's after the initial install?

 

I wouldn't hesitate to pull the rockers off and reuse the stock pushrods.
Absolutely would be my first choice.

 

Jazzhog...I don't want to answer a question you asked of omgtkk, but since I am on-line here I will and I am sure he would say about the same thing. All this means is that the bike needs to set for several minutes to allow oil to completely drain out of the lifters before you make the final pushrod adjustment on either cylinder....no big deal. This discussion could get pretty long and I'll just shorten it by saying the kit instructions usually explain the process. If not...I have some notes that I scavanged from some other place that goes into great detail that I would send you.

Yes...you can order the pushrods and covers as a kit off e-bay, or other sources.

No..you may not have to go back in and adjust the pushrods if you get them right the first time. It's just another "tuning option" that you have with the adjustable rods. The stock set-up is engineered in the middle of the range on the lifters. Some folks like to make small adjustments to this and it is often possible to tune-out some of the lifter and vale-train noise. If you have tensioner issues...you would find it much easier to remove the adjustable rods to get to the cam-chest guts.

Faast Ed has an opinion, just like we all do. Many folks don't like adjustable pushrods and some swear by them. I ran Harleys for years-and-years and swore that I would never install a set of adjustable rods until I purchased a Twin Cam that requires some frequent "poking around" in the cam-chest. I don't argue from one perspective or another. All I do know that it is a PITA to pull all that stuff off the top of an Ultra and the last time I had to do that...I installed adjustable pushrods.

 

I'd like to add to that a little.

Once you snug the pushrod down, it will not spin freely with your fingers, until the lifter has time to bleed down. 10-20 minutes later they should spin freely if you rotate them with your fingers.

 

Jazz....if you want to PM me with your e-mail, I will send you a document that will step you through the adjustment procedure on any brand of rod. It is very detailed and if you follow the instructions...you can't mess it up.

 

I need the procedure too. Harleywizard@gmail.com thanks

 

E-mail sent Harleywizard.

Guys that do this all the time take it as a matter-of-fact and casual affair, but I know the first-timers are a bit nervous about it. There are thousands of bikes running around out there with adjustable pushrods in them and they are not causing any problems, and in many cases are improving things over stock rods. You can tune-out valve train noise and get peak lift and performance over the stock set-up, which is the middle-of-the-range on the lifter. There is a range in which the lifter will operate and not bottom-out and cause damage. The "experts" can set the rods a little deeper than stock, but this activity is not for the novice, or first-time installer. Follow the instructions that come with your rods, or otherwise determine the thread-pitch and you will be fine if you simply turn the rods against an oil filled (relaxed) lifter the prescribed number of turns and collapse the plunger around 1/2 way into the lifter body.

I have a long story that won't fit here, but I screwed-up the first set I ever installed. Some of these things run the jam-nut against the foot and others run the jam-nut against the rod. I tightened the jam-nut against the wrong end and my rods kept working loose. I got my head out of my butt after the second time I pushed mine home. If you have a vision problem...be sure to wear your glasses and take a close look at how the jam-nuts are designed to lock the particular rods you have.

The other thing that seems to bother people is "what is being able to spin the rod with your fingers". That is something you will have to feel for yourself, but the good news is that the lifter allows you a little slack by virtue of the way it operates.

Don't get in a hurry. You should be able to spin the rod with your fingers after 15-20 minutes post adjustment. If the rod cannot be turned by hand after it has bled-down...you have it too tight...go back and start over. You can't hurt anything with them set too lose. It will only sound like a diesel cranking up, but you can destroy something if they are set too deep in the bore or in a lifter that is not totally off the cam lobe.