o3 roadking cam tensioner replacement??
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 420
Likes: 202
o3 roadking cam tensioner replacement??
2003 roadking cam chain tensioners
Ok, so I had some engine noise and I was told that it could be the primary cam chain tensioner found on the right side of the bike under the cam cover. I removed the exhaust, saddlebags and foot pedal to clear the way to the cam cover (no need to remove the small cover ..theres nothing under it).
Oh yea, I drained the engine oil.
Then, I removed the cam cover and some parts .. (pieces) fell out. So, the advice I was given was correct, the primary cam chain tensioner was CRASHED. This obviously causes the primary chain to become loose.
After doing some research The practice seems to be to add a NEW screaming eagle hydraulic tensioner and related parts purchased in a kit for about $500. Seems a bit expensive since these too have a wearable shoes that can go bad and then it would have to be replaced, so Im not certain what to use.
Also, I noticed on the lower left hand side of the cam support plate where the oem primary tensioner goes the post which holds the tensioner is bent at an angle, (its not perfectly perpendicular to the support plate. It may have been bent when the oem tensioner crashed.) Could this post be replaced or bent back into place?
As well, should the chain be replaced?
I just got thru doing a upper rebuild on a 2004 xr250 and I dont feel like doing a upper/lower disassembly on this big roadking simply for a chain tensioner. But I will I guess.
Any info is appreciated.
Ok, so I had some engine noise and I was told that it could be the primary cam chain tensioner found on the right side of the bike under the cam cover. I removed the exhaust, saddlebags and foot pedal to clear the way to the cam cover (no need to remove the small cover ..theres nothing under it).
Oh yea, I drained the engine oil.
Then, I removed the cam cover and some parts .. (pieces) fell out. So, the advice I was given was correct, the primary cam chain tensioner was CRASHED. This obviously causes the primary chain to become loose.
After doing some research The practice seems to be to add a NEW screaming eagle hydraulic tensioner and related parts purchased in a kit for about $500. Seems a bit expensive since these too have a wearable shoes that can go bad and then it would have to be replaced, so Im not certain what to use.
Also, I noticed on the lower left hand side of the cam support plate where the oem primary tensioner goes the post which holds the tensioner is bent at an angle, (its not perfectly perpendicular to the support plate. It may have been bent when the oem tensioner crashed.) Could this post be replaced or bent back into place?
As well, should the chain be replaced?
I just got thru doing a upper rebuild on a 2004 xr250 and I dont feel like doing a upper/lower disassembly on this big roadking simply for a chain tensioner. But I will I guess.
Any info is appreciated.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,056
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio Texas
It is the Cam Chain Tensioner not Primary Chain. I am having the same issue on my 2003 RK which has 58k on her. It started making a hell of a noise a few weeks ago so I am about to tear into her and see if this is also the issue. You can buy the stock Cam Chain Tensioners for about $50 each. There is another one on the inside of the Cam Plate and it tends to be worse than the outer one. The good thing is that the chain should be good. It has been polished through use and should not really cause you another issue for about 50K+ if you hcnage the tensioners now. Take the extra money and buy new bearings and replace them. Also you may wat to cut the old pushrods and replace them with adjustable. This will save you time and headaches. All and all, it should be an easy enough job and there are plenty of threads here that will tell you how to do it.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 420
Likes: 202
Maskedstranger
Let me/us know when you get in there. Look CLOSELY at the "primary cam chain tensioner POST" tell me if yours is (skewed) down and to the left.
I have already installed my "secondary" tensioner and cam support plate but I'm researching the primary since this "skewed" for the primary is very
odd looking.
Read on:
2003 roadking cam chain tensioners
After having hands on (my own bike) and doing some research I can say that in my opinion this oem tensioner design from the factory was a "cheap" design flaw in that the engineers had to know that these components would not last very long at all and that they would have to continue to sell these
cheaply made parts or sell a update kit (hydralic design) that MAY last much longer or not, but for an extra $650 in parts plus labor. I work as a designer.....10 years in automotive and 15 years in aircraft so I know how the game works. The designer wants to use the more reliable design but the manager at the factory says there's no way their going to add this much price increase to the consumer for a new bike so, they use the cheaper components at the begining and then as the years go by they try to influence the consumer to "upgrade" to the new design.
All of this is just my opinion......you make up your own mind.
Oh yea, I used the old components to make the fix. Maybe $175 worth. If I can go another 8 years and 50k miles before it fails again then it's worth it to me since I don't mind doing the work.
One thing that is confusing is that the DOWEL PIN on the cam support plate that holds the primary tensioner is NOT perpendicular with respect to the cam support plate, its actually skewed down
and to the left (IS IT SUPPOSE TO BE THAT WAY???) and the OEM manual shows a technical illustration reflecting this on page 3-50 upper left corner view A.
Can't figure out why unless they are trying to push the chain away from the plate, but this would just make it wear out even quicker.
What ever, you live with it or go buy another bike I guess.
Let me/us know when you get in there. Look CLOSELY at the "primary cam chain tensioner POST" tell me if yours is (skewed) down and to the left.
I have already installed my "secondary" tensioner and cam support plate but I'm researching the primary since this "skewed" for the primary is very
odd looking.
Read on:
2003 roadking cam chain tensioners
After having hands on (my own bike) and doing some research I can say that in my opinion this oem tensioner design from the factory was a "cheap" design flaw in that the engineers had to know that these components would not last very long at all and that they would have to continue to sell these
cheaply made parts or sell a update kit (hydralic design) that MAY last much longer or not, but for an extra $650 in parts plus labor. I work as a designer.....10 years in automotive and 15 years in aircraft so I know how the game works. The designer wants to use the more reliable design but the manager at the factory says there's no way their going to add this much price increase to the consumer for a new bike so, they use the cheaper components at the begining and then as the years go by they try to influence the consumer to "upgrade" to the new design.
All of this is just my opinion......you make up your own mind.
Oh yea, I used the old components to make the fix. Maybe $175 worth. If I can go another 8 years and 50k miles before it fails again then it's worth it to me since I don't mind doing the work.
One thing that is confusing is that the DOWEL PIN on the cam support plate that holds the primary tensioner is NOT perpendicular with respect to the cam support plate, its actually skewed down
and to the left (IS IT SUPPOSE TO BE THAT WAY???) and the OEM manual shows a technical illustration reflecting this on page 3-50 upper left corner view A.
Can't figure out why unless they are trying to push the chain away from the plate, but this would just make it wear out even quicker.
What ever, you live with it or go buy another bike I guess.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,056
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio Texas
Haven't had the time to break into the bike as of yet. Work late hours then the gym then it is time for some rest. My goal is to get to it tomorrow for sure. Atleast get her opened up so I can what I am dealing with inside of her. Question for you: Did you have to drain your oil or is there very limited amount in there so it was a huge issue?
Any who, I will let you know tomorrow evening for sure as to whether or not it is "skewed" in there. Looks like we will be walking through this one together. LOL
Any who, I will let you know tomorrow evening for sure as to whether or not it is "skewed" in there. Looks like we will be walking through this one together. LOL
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 2
From: Macon, GA USA
Cam chains have a primary and secondary chain. If one adjuster is bad good chance both are. I recommend going to the SE up dated kit! If you have to by two chains and two shoes for the stock set up you will spend about $250 for just those 4 parts. You can get the SE update kit for under $400. The up date kit you go to the late hydraulic adjusters not mechanical like stock and the late oil pump which is a much better set up. This is what I did to my 02 ultra and well worth it and in the long run you will save money.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 420
Likes: 202
Well, I could not go back to oem stock parts because my "primary tensioner" locating "post" was BUSTED, yes it broke when the primary tensioner crashed. I just went down to harley and bought the SE kit for $620, installed it and started the engine. Everything runs fine except the engine idle appears to be off......too low. The only way to fix that is if I have a scanalyzer and set the idle to 1k. I'll see if the shop down the street will set it for me.
I figure the timing changes just a little because your using new gears and chain and spacers and the NEW tensioners have a small amount of pressure on them vs the oem tensioners having what, 40lbs of pressure against the chain.
Also, I did drain the oil.
Don't forget to use "engine assembly lube" on those dryed out parts.
I figure the timing changes just a little because your using new gears and chain and spacers and the NEW tensioners have a small amount of pressure on them vs the oem tensioners having what, 40lbs of pressure against the chain.
Also, I did drain the oil.
Don't forget to use "engine assembly lube" on those dryed out parts.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 2
From: Macon, GA USA
Well, I could not go back to oem stock parts because my "primary tensioner" locating "post" was BUSTED, yes it broke when the primary tensioner crashed. I just went down to harley and bought the SE kit for $620, installed it and started the engine. Everything runs fine except the engine idle appears to be off......too low. The only way to fix that is if I have a scanalyzer and set the idle to 1k. I'll see if the shop down the street will set it for me.
I figure the timing changes just a little because your using new gears and chain and spacers and the NEW tensioners have a small amount of pressure on them vs the oem tensioners having what, 40lbs of pressure against the chain.
Also, I did drain the oil.
Don't forget to use "engine assembly lube" on those dryed out parts.
I figure the timing changes just a little because your using new gears and chain and spacers and the NEW tensioners have a small amount of pressure on them vs the oem tensioners having what, 40lbs of pressure against the chain.
Also, I did drain the oil.
Don't forget to use "engine assembly lube" on those dryed out parts.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 420
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Shoot, frickin arizona.
Is it normal to have to set the idle after installing the SE tensioner kit?
Is it normal to have to set the idle after installing the SE tensioner kit?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 2
From: Macon, GA USA
When I installed mine I did not have to change the idle setting.