Starting to think about winter...
Starting to think about winter...
Hate to think that its coming, but what you gonna do?
Anyway, I'm looking for some recommendations on some off-season maintenance stuff on my 1990 FXRS:
- Brakes: Mine has the single disk front. Not the best brakes I've ever had. The pads show plenty of life, but I'd like something a little better. Any specific brand of pads I should be looking at?
- Tires: The Dunlops it came with are getting pretty thin, and being of unknown age, probably need changing anyway. I typically get in about 10k miles per year, more or less, and typically get a couple of years out of a set. Unless someone tells me I'm going the wrong way, I'll probably just replace the Dunlops with new ones. Is there a preferred tire out there for these?
- Front Suspension: Lots and lots of dive in the forks. I'm guessing I want to get in there are refresh all the seals and such. What about new (progressive?) springs? I like the handling, just don't like the bounciness of this bike.
- Rear Suspension: Same thing. Too soft and bouncy. New rear shocks+springs in order? Any specific recommendations?
- Odds and ends: Bike's almost 25 years old, and all stock as far as I know. Low miles (about 25k now). All I've done to it since I got it a couple of months ago is put in a new battery, new plugs, and a couple of three-hole fluid changes. Is there anything I should be doing just to avoid downtime next year? Would you bother changing out coil/plug wires/ignition module (stuff like that) "just in case"? Or do I just leave it since it runs fine?
In all of this, I don't mind spending money, but I don't want to be stupid about it.
Anyway, I'm looking for some recommendations on some off-season maintenance stuff on my 1990 FXRS:
- Brakes: Mine has the single disk front. Not the best brakes I've ever had. The pads show plenty of life, but I'd like something a little better. Any specific brand of pads I should be looking at?
- Tires: The Dunlops it came with are getting pretty thin, and being of unknown age, probably need changing anyway. I typically get in about 10k miles per year, more or less, and typically get a couple of years out of a set. Unless someone tells me I'm going the wrong way, I'll probably just replace the Dunlops with new ones. Is there a preferred tire out there for these?
- Front Suspension: Lots and lots of dive in the forks. I'm guessing I want to get in there are refresh all the seals and such. What about new (progressive?) springs? I like the handling, just don't like the bounciness of this bike.
- Rear Suspension: Same thing. Too soft and bouncy. New rear shocks+springs in order? Any specific recommendations?
- Odds and ends: Bike's almost 25 years old, and all stock as far as I know. Low miles (about 25k now). All I've done to it since I got it a couple of months ago is put in a new battery, new plugs, and a couple of three-hole fluid changes. Is there anything I should be doing just to avoid downtime next year? Would you bother changing out coil/plug wires/ignition module (stuff like that) "just in case"? Or do I just leave it since it runs fine?
In all of this, I don't mind spending money, but I don't want to be stupid about it.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
I can't help with the brakes but if you are running 402's try American Elite the next time you need tires.
Suspension most people like progressive though there are several others that make good stuff that will help with your diving problem and rear suspension.
Above all I recommend a good cam (assuming you have the stock cam in that bike).
It will make that motor run like it was supposed to before the EPA got their hands on the design!!!
Suspension most people like progressive though there are several others that make good stuff that will help with your diving problem and rear suspension.
Above all I recommend a good cam (assuming you have the stock cam in that bike).
It will make that motor run like it was supposed to before the EPA got their hands on the design!!!
But I am torn. On the one hand, it really does run fine. Its not a fast bike, but its a "fast enough" bike right now. I've certainly had faster.
Its box stock, AFAIK. No reason to think the motor's ever been open.
So, I wonder, how would this bike be set up if the HD guys had been allowed to do it the way they wanted to and not the way the EPA made them? Ultimately, that's what I'd like. That being said, I'm more interested in running this motor well past 100k miles than I am in getting to the next stoplight a few seconds sooner. And I also worry about ending up with an endless fiddle: This carb doesn't work quite right with that cam and those pipes and that intake, so round and round trying to get it back to run as well as it did when I started.
And there's a whole other can of worms here. Both jugs are fairly weepy at the base, so once I get started I'll probably pull everything and re-gasket. And once I'm in that deep...Where does it end?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 115
From: Boston, MA
HarDlife has a nice build thread, probably the best. Most in here will tell you to go with an ev27 and that is good, solid advice and re-using stock pushrods is a plus. I went a little more aggressive and went with the w6. Bob Wood, the designer of the cam, said DON'T CALL him (me) if I reuse stock rods and get clacking and not just ticking. I used adjustable taperlites from Revtech, IIRC... I have a small but noticeable tick that I chalk up to lifter noise even though I'm running JIMS , so..... yeah, it is ticking. I find it acceptable when I pass 88" & 96" twinkies. I also have the worst exhaust, true dual. I am running a 'stock' screaming eagle iggy and coil but I am happy. Spanner39 has said the stock stuff will work unless you get into high compression pistons and the like.
Check out Hard Life's thread and substitute the w6 and call Bob Wood for all the free tech support you may need. Peruse Spanners and Kees sticky above for all of the advice you may need.
THC, will give u good advice to change cam bearing and since you're gonna do base gaskets the rest is all there anywaysssss. Hahahaha. It's your money, sir.
Tom
Check out Hard Life's thread and substitute the w6 and call Bob Wood for all the free tech support you may need. Peruse Spanners and Kees sticky above for all of the advice you may need.
THC, will give u good advice to change cam bearing and since you're gonna do base gaskets the rest is all there anywaysssss. Hahahaha. It's your money, sir.
Tom
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Well I would have but you already did!!
However if you do make sure you get the right tools for the job!!!!!!!!!!!
Trending Topics
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
So, I wonder, how would this bike be set up if the HD guys had been allowed to do it the way they wanted to and not the way the EPA made them? Ultimately, that's what I'd like. That being said, I'm more interested in running this motor well past 100k miles than I am in getting to the next stoplight a few seconds sooner. And I also worry about ending up with an endless fiddle: This carb doesn't work quite right with that cam and those pipes and that intake, so round and round trying to get it back to run as well as it did when I started.
And there's a whole other can of worms here. Both jugs are fairly weepy at the base, so once I get started I'll probably pull everything and re-gasket. And once I'm in that deep...Where does it end?
And there's a whole other can of worms here. Both jugs are fairly weepy at the base, so once I get started I'll probably pull everything and re-gasket. And once I'm in that deep...Where does it end?
The EV-27 will work fine with what ever combination you have.
IMO the best thing you can do for that bike is get a Cometic gasket set for your bike and change the cam and cam bearing and STOP.
That is the best bang for your buck that you can get. After that things start getting expensive.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,078
Likes: 2,150
From: Ohio
[QUOTEIn all of this, I don't mind spending money, but I don't want to be stupid about it.
Oh! you are in the right area, we are stupid on spending other peoples money, We need horsepower right away
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
For brakes you can upgrade to a TC 4-pot caliper with the correct bracket, some think the bracket is ugly but its less ugly than not stopping when you need to.
I prefer using Honda Fireblade calipers from the mid-90's with 330mm discs....mine is dual disc and is epic except in the wet when it is about as good as the original set-up was in the dry but better pads might cure that.
Progressive front springs will cure the diving along with a heavier oil but I don't rate their rear shocks at all. Late model TC take-offs will work better than what you have on there now and are dead cheap from Ebay, my last set were 30 bucks plus shipping.
I prefer using Honda Fireblade calipers from the mid-90's with 330mm discs....mine is dual disc and is epic except in the wet when it is about as good as the original set-up was in the dry but better pads might cure that.
Progressive front springs will cure the diving along with a heavier oil but I don't rate their rear shocks at all. Late model TC take-offs will work better than what you have on there now and are dead cheap from Ebay, my last set were 30 bucks plus shipping.