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Does the needle have multiple clip slots (like an adjustable Dynojet needle)? Id be surprised if it didn't. Needle adjustment affects the range you're looking at....
Ok guys I have a '91 Softail with a CV carb, running a 46 pilot and 185 main jet. The carb was rebuilt last year and the accelerator pump diaphragm replaced. New plug wires. Also has a Big Sucker Stage I air cleaner and I believe the slip ons were swapped out before I got it since it's louder than stock.
If I'm running at a steady speed say 50mph, let off of it and then go to roll on the throttle I am getting a momentary pop almost like a miss, but also sounds like it coming from the carb. Also happens when I slow down and then go to get back on it.
Also with the temps dropping it is harder to start than normal.
Any thoughts on carb issue or ignition?
Thanks,
Tony
Take another look at the accelerator pump.
Jetting sounds about right and the plugs don't look bad.
The problem is either with the needle jet or accelerator pump, and that needle should be good.
Look at the accelerator pump either it's blocked or has a bad diaphragm.
I know the diaphragm was recently replaced, but check it again.
I finally got the time to pull the carb and manifold. I went through the carb and the accelerator pump was working fine. I cleaned the jets and the low speed circuit.
I replaced the manifold gaskets with a set of James silicone manifold gaskets and thought I tightened the flanges down evenly. The 1/4 inch allen bolts were a p.i.t.a. I wound up using an allen drive from a socket and used a 1/4" wrench to turn it. Unfortunately I got it all back together and it's coughing worse than it did before. I guess I'll try a differentset of gaskets.
Those look good to me. Did you try and spray it to see if it was leaking? I know every now and then I have to get in there and check intake nuts for tightness. When you get it back together try and see if you are getting a good shot from the Acc pump. It's riding weather.
Those look good to me. Did you try and spray it to see if it was leaking? I know every now and then I have to get in there and check intake nuts for tightness. When you get it back together try and see if you are getting a good shot from the Acc pump. It's riding weather.
Thanks. The intake nuts were tight to begin with. The accelerator pump was working good when I took it off.
I'll check for an intake leak and then re-check the accelerator pump and if that's not it, I'll go back in and re-clean the idle circuit. Originally I had the mixture screw out at 2 1/4 turns, now it's about 3 1/4.
i think that was part of the issue the intake seals - the rubber on the one is coming apart and the white mold on the other is what we see all the time, to make it easyer white grease the new seals put the right side allens in and on the left use regular 5 / 16 X 18 bolts - align best you can snug the right side install the carb and air filter back as it will align its self than tighten the right almost all the way with the new bolts - take the back cover and the carb back off and then tighten the right side and left allens some what together so you dont tweak the intake
i think that was part of the issue the intake seals - the rubber on the one is coming apart and the white mold on the other is what we see all the time, to make it easyer white grease the new seals put the right side allens in and on the left use regular 5 / 16 X 18 bolts - align best you can snug the right side install the carb and air filter back as it will align its self than tighten the right almost all the way with the new bolts - take the back cover and the carb back off and then tighten the right side and left allens some what together so you dont tweak the intake
Thanks John. So you recommend replacing the bolts? Using the allens on the right side and the hex heads on the left side of the motor as they originally were? Or are you talking right side looking in between the jugs from the carb side?
right side is the carb side - in my shop we swap out all 4 allens - the right side we use 12 point bolts that have 5 /16 heads on them so we can use a 1/4 inch drive 5 /16 universal swivel socket to tighten them -- it make it a snap to repair in the future
1/2 wrench left side - 5 /16 - 1/4 inch drive swivel right side
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