Like a lot of our era bikes, the odometer in mine is very hard to read. It's so dim I can barely make it out and is getting worse all the time. The upgrade replacement unit is obsolete but there are a few out there. P/N is 67033-95D (98 RKC).

The corporate help guy found me a few here and there so I bought the first one I called for $250. They said it had been on the shelf since 2002 and wanted to get rid of it. Regular price is $500. Only problem is that this one has 18k on the odometer and the factory can't reset it. Must have been one that was ordered and never picked up. I found another with zero miles on it but wasn't paying double. These guys weren't budging on price.

So I'm just going to note the mileage on the old speedo in my log and keep it in the box. No plans of reselling. Who wants to sell an EVO?


carl

 

Mileage is immaterial once they get over 30K anyway....its how good it is at the time of sale that counts.

 

Since your fluid changes are supposed to be done at a certain mileage I don't think I can completely agree with you on this one.
I will agree that condition at time of sale counts a lot!!!!!!

 

I'm on my third speedometer, so I keep a running total in my log book. First Speedo quit counting miles somewhere between 103,000 and 104,000 miles. Second one I replaced simply because I wanted a "62 style. That speedo now shows about 56,000 miles (about 193,000 miles total on the bike).


After the first 100K, it no longer matters, since my old mechanical speedo rolls back to zero.

 

I had a little trouble trying to follow.
If i understand correctly you have a 1998 bike. That year had some LCD odometers that would bleed-out and cause a black-out condition of the LCD screen only. The liquid leak blacked-out numbers on the LCD. This was across the board for some tank mounted speedometers.
There were several revisions of the part number you indicated #67033-95 as you can tell by the "D" at the end of the number.

These speedometers are different from the newer bikes as observed by the many wires that exit at the bottom as opposed to a plug and play situation.
The mileage is stored in the speedometer. As general information a speedometer could be opened by the chrome ring and carefully and with tremendous patience exchange the LCD screen only from your new unit into the old one or you can take the new unit to a speedometer shop so they can pulse the mileage into the unit. If you ride the bike they can determine the pulse wire or if the unit is unhooked you can look at the schematics for the pulse wire (speed sensor?). In the simplest way they pulse the mileage as if it was ridding down the road..Making the unit think it is doing 120mph +. The mileage is stored inside the speedometer. It takes a while depending on how much needs to be added.
Writing the mileage on the bottom and saving the old unit is OK but then you need to declare true mileage unknown or something similar on the title when selling since the odometer is incorrect.

 

We agree on both counts but you overthought the answer...it is exactly because the service history has such a huge effect on the state of the bike that I made my statement....it could pretty burned out at 30K if not looked after or be a minter at 100K....do a comp check and sniff the oil...works for me

 

On 10yo and older vehicles, you transfer title with mileage "exempt", so the effect on the value should be minimal. I wouldn't jump through hoops to save the actual miles from a value standpoint.

 

Uncle G…….193K? sorry to steal thread, but what work has been needed on it other than normal maintenance? And at what interval?

 

"Uncle G…….193K? sorry to steal thread, but what work has been needed on it other than normal maintenance? And at what interval? "


Mostly gas, oil, tires and batteries. Motor was remanufactured by the factory once in '01 (at 85,000) due to damage from a tappet roller failure back at 50,000 miles. Remanufactured again in '02 (under warranty) due to a rod bearing failure. Current motor has 100,000 miles on it, has good compression, uses no oil and runs like a champ. I now change lifters and inner cam bearing every 40,000 miles since the motor was rebuilt. I have the tools and do the work myself.


I get 20-30,000 miles from a set of brake pads and about 100,000 miles from a set of brake rotors. I replace the belt every 10 years or 85,000 miles, so I'm on the third belt. Primary chain is replaced any time I'm in the primary if the chain has been on there for more than 40,000 miles. I replaced the starter motor in 2010. Steering head bearings in '01. Transmission has never been apart. Clutch plates are original. Pulleys were replaced with the first belt replacement, but not since.

 

Cool. I bought a garage queen 2 years ago, 1995 Heritage special. Had just over 10k on her and now has a little over 23k. I love it more than any of my previous newer twin cams. I know I will never part with her so thanks for giving me an idea of what can be expected. I do crack the whip on her, but not too often. Had 20k service performed at an indy last summer and only issue thus far is minor base gasket leaking.