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My problem is not the black out condition. The problem is the odometer is so faded I can't read it anymore. I like to be able to read the mileage to keep up with maintenance and gas tank level.
I'm not worried about resale. This is a Road King. Nobody in their right mind would sell a road king.
Carl
Originally Posted by im
I had a little trouble trying to follow.
If i understand correctly you have a 1998 bike. That year had some LCD odometers that would bleed-out and cause a black-out condition of the LCD screen only. The liquid leak blacked-out numbers on the LCD. This was across the board for some tank mounted speedometers.
There were several revisions of the part number you indicated #67033-95 as you can tell by the "D" at the end of the number.
These speedometers are different from the newer bikes as observed by the many wires that exit at the bottom as opposed to a plug and play situation.
The mileage is stored in the speedometer. As general information a speedometer could be opened by the chrome ring and carefully and with tremendous patience exchange the LCD screen only from your new unit into the old one or you can take the new unit to a speedometer shop so they can pulse the mileage into the unit. If you ride the bike they can determine the pulse wire or if the unit is unhooked you can look at the schematics for the pulse wire (speed sensor?). In the simplest way they pulse the mileage as if it was ridding down the road..Making the unit think it is doing 120mph +. The mileage is stored inside the speedometer. It takes a while depending on how much needs to be added.
Writing the mileage on the bottom and saving the old unit is OK but then you need to declare true mileage unknown or something similar on the title when selling since the odometer is incorrect.
My problem is not the black out condition. The problem is the odometer is so faded I can't read it anymore. I like to be able to read the mileage to keep up with maintenance and gas tank level.
I'm not worried about resale. This is a Road King. Nobody in their right mind would sell a road king.
Carl
Faded and no bleed out?
If it is faded then i guess either the speedometer glass is dirty or the plastic odometer LCD screen has gotten cloudy from sun damage. Faded is odd because i have not read of faded LCD screens.
Faded and no bleed out?
If it is faded then i guess either the speedometer glass is dirty or the plastic odometer LCD screen has gotten cloudy from sun damage. Faded is odd because i have not read of faded LCD screens.
Yup. Faded and no bleed out. I've read about it on several forums. It was a common problem.
New speedometer came in yesterday. I'll be putting that on over the holidays.
So I finished up the speedo installation a few hours ago. Took about 1/2 day but I was taking my time. I bought a deutsch terminals service kit #18650 from "Tool Aid" for about $88 so I could crimp the pins and sockets for the new connectors. The kit has all the crimp tools and extractors to service any Deutsch connector on the bike. Everything worked out fine and I can now see my odometer.
For anyone who finds this thread and needs to do the same thing, here are a few tips.
Use the 18 gauge crimper. Strip all wires 3/16". Fill the unused connector holes with sealing plugs.
You will need to use both the speedometer kit instructions and the factory service manual to do the job. I had one extra wire that was not used I determined to be a "pursuit indicator" for police bikes only.
The best way to do this is to cut one wire from the old connector (there are 3 to be done total), strip, crimp, then install in the new connector, being mindful of where it needs to go per the kit diagram. Connector #20 has one wire that goes to a new location (note in kit instructions) and 1 wire that isn't used. The not used wire is PK (pink) in the FSM.
This job was a head scratcher but I've never done this type of connector before. Plus I wanted to take my time and hopefully get it right in one shot. If I had to do it again I'd guess it's about a 2-3 hour job, taking it real slow.
Good job Carl. Nice to be able to take your time and get it right. Appreciate the tips also. Not to hijack the thread, but I did my gauges out of my 50 pickup/ No connectors needed!
So I finished up the speedo installation a few hours ago. Took about 1/2 day but I was taking my time. I bought a deutsch terminals service kit #18650 from "Tool Aid" for about $88 so I could crimp the pins and sockets for the new connectors. The kit has all the crimp tools and extractors to service any Deutsch connector on the bike. Everything worked out fine and I can now see my odometer.
For anyone who finds this thread and needs to do the same thing, here are a few tips.
Use the 18 gauge crimper. Strip all wires 3/16". Fill the unused connector holes with sealing plugs.
You will need to use both the speedometer kit instructions and the factory service manual to do the job. I had one extra wire that was not used I determined to be a "pursuit indicator" for police bikes only.
The best way to do this is to cut one wire from the old connector (there are 3 to be done total), strip, crimp, then install in the new connector, being mindful of where it needs to go per the kit diagram. Connector #20 has one wire that goes to a new location (note in kit instructions) and 1 wire that isn't used. The not used wire is PK (pink) in the FSM.
This job was a head scratcher but I've never done this type of connector before. Plus I wanted to take my time and hopefully get it right in one shot. If I had to do it again I'd guess it's about a 2-3 hour job, taking it real slow.
Carl
Thank you for posting the installation.
You report 3 connectors.
I would imagine it would be one for the speedometer and then 1 male and 1 female for behind the side plate/saddle bag.
I thought the new speedometer had a black 12 pin connection on the bottom of the speedometer.
Basically a Deutsch male connector showing 12 little pins inside the black box under speedometer.
The original factory bike harness for the speedometer is hard wired so it requires a conversion of the loose wires to a female Deutsch plug.
Did you cut the wires from the old speedometer and place the wires from the old speedometer locations in one new female plug (correct locations) before inserting into speedometer?
I see 3 kinds of adapters for the retrofit online. One kind is pre-assembled and has wires and plugs and then another is a set of 3 loose connectors with loose pins and then there is a single connector deal.
To clarify:
#1 BK Rider Sub-Wire Harness for Harley Electronic Speedometer Part #C01002966 and Speedo/Tachometer Part # C01002967
#2 Speedometer Connector Kit for Harley-Davidson 1996-99 Harness to 2000-03 Speedo
0840-0100 also called Harley 67418-99
then there is:
#3 NAMZ MDP-12B SPEEDOMETER harness PLUG 74119-98BK HARLEY DAVIDSON that is just one single black plug with 12 pins and the orange pin /wire holder.
I have read a few installation instructions and they all describe the one connector installation (speedometer connection) with the transfer of wires to that plug and insertion into speedometer.
Then a left side cover harness connection that cut and change wire location at a male & female connector.
What looks like the best or easiest to you.
Reason: Do you think this suggestion would work?
I see a pre-wired female plug with leads available on e bay that could be installed with posi-locks to the cut motorcycle wires from the harness. To clarify they would be attached to the wires that used to go to old speedometer.
It would be rather clean, professional looking and efficient.
It would also be less stress in regards to maintaining wire length.
Search DEUTSCH 12 PIN 12 WIRE GRAY FEMALE BOAT GAUGE CONNECTOR on the bay site.
Looks like it might make installation rather easy if someone follows the correct wiring locations.
That bay site female plug unit comes with pre-wired leads.
If it could be used then the entire installation could be completed with the small posi-locks, a set of wire cutters/strippers and a heat shrink tube.
It would reduce connection cost,remove any further tool cost and save time.
Would be rather neat if that would work since it would not require the purchase of tools or pins.
As far as the required change at the left side of bike harness connection: it looks like there would really be no need to change any plastic plugs. No need to go from a 14 pin to 12 pin connection since all it is doing is removing the one pink wire from the male and female sides of connectors and taping them away (disconnected) for security. looks like they are just playing leap frog with the wires in those connectors but maintaining the same connections/colors/relationship. Basically a connection is a connection since the system does not know the plastic plug was not changed since all other wires are required to maintain the same contact.
What are your thoughts?
Here is a link for the posi-locks if you were unfamiliar. http://www.webbikeworld.com/sale/pos...s-for-sale.htm
