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Another MM FI Question

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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:49 PM
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Default Another MM FI Question

I have a 1996 Ultra Classic with MM FI, 1997/98 ECM, Power Commander III.
Patriot exhaust with exhaust sensor ports,
Is there a after market FI system that will replace the MM system?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RLH3175
I have a 1996 Ultra Classic with MM FI, 1997/98 ECM, Power Commander III.
Patriot exhaust with exhaust sensor ports,
Is there a after market FI system that will replace the MM system?
Yes, but at a substantial cost (north of $2,000). You will be much better off upgrading to a good carburetor, or working with your MM, IMHO. I'm at the same crossroads, and having excellent experience with a Mikuni, I'm going that route....
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:23 PM
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Easy route: Put a carb on it. More complicated route: Switch to Megasquirt or Microsquirt.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...407b239bed73b4

Are you good with wiring?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:29 PM
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S&S and Zippers both have complete kits. S&S (also sold through Harley,) has a new ECM that plugs right into the MM injection. MM injection is offered on many European cars so hardware should be available as needed.

If I ever have issues with my MM ( still good at 15 yrs and 150,000 miles,) I think that's the route I'd go. Found one for you:

http://www.harleycustom.com/US_SS-Cy..._40_1124_13867
 

Last edited by Stiggy; Jan 2, 2015 at 07:37 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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Few systems available but going to cost you as Rhino is barking, going to be many say the Evo section is stuck in prehistoric times and is scared of modern EFI. I have modded the M&M system to power 100 hp but all that work, all of the building maps with a Wego 3 tuning system, riding and tuning, a simple prehistoric drip carb is more consistent that will out perform the M&M system hands down. Not scared, just been there and done that, the $400-$500 is priceless. Fight it if you want and several on here will help in your decision either direction but listen to a carbed Evo idle before selling a kidney to keep up with modern times.

http://www.hotbikeweb.com/zippers-th...conversion-kit
 

Last edited by 1997bagger; Jan 2, 2015 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 11:04 AM
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I followed this video instruction and adjusted the cold idle and warm idle.
It had never been adjusted since new, it still had the screw heads plugged with epoxy. The first setting is suppose to be .275 volts, mine was .120 volts. I adjusted it to .275 and .650 per the video.
It starts and idles good, and no longer idles at 1400 when hot. Can't wait until it clears up so I can take it for a real test drive.
 

Last edited by RLH3175; Jan 3, 2015 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RLH3175
Harley Davidson Magneti Marelli Fuel Injection Settings - YouTube


I followed this video instruction and adjusted the cold idle and warm idle.
It had never adjusted since new, it still had the screw heads plugged with epoxy. The first setting is suppose to be .275 volts, mine was .120 volts.
It starts and idles good, and no longer idles at 1400 when hot. Can't wait until it clears up so I can take it for a real test drive.
Let us know how that works out. (I might need that someday!)
 
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 01:27 PM
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Good find on the video !
 
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 09:13 AM
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My friends 98 had some cold /warm start issues. PC on it also. His never really cleared up to his liking so we converted it to a carb. Sound definitely improved on the idle. He said it ran better too.

Griz
 
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by IBDAGRIZ
My friends 98 had some cold /warm start issues. PC on it also. His never really cleared up to his liking so we converted it to a carb. Sound definitely improved on the idle. He said it ran better too.

Griz
If I ever have to change to a carb to keep the bike running, then I will do it. I am 67 years old and have been building and racing motorcycles for almost 50 years, mostly carbs, but if FI is working right, it is far superior to a carb, the key is working right. A carb can be adjusted at idle, mid, and full throttle, so you end up with it right on in three different places in the rpm range, and close in between. I know that the MM FI is not the best, without continuous monitoring of the air/fuel ratio it can't make the adjustments needed, so you have to take it to a tuner every time you change something on the bike.
My bike is 19 years old, with 73,000 miles, starts as soon as you hit the starter and runs good, the 1400 rpm idle was my only complaint, and hopefully that is solved by adjusting the cold idle and hot idle.
But it is good to know that the parts to convert it to carb are available, just in case....
 
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