No oil pressure when hot...
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
Sputhe and S&S are different companies, although both of them have made replacement parts for Harley engines over the years. Sputhe are in California, S&S in Wisconsin. It is quite likely that the engine you saw was made from parts from both those companies.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
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From: Ohio
Lighten up, Francis.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Indiana, USA
I would replace or rebuild the oil pump at the very least pull it off to see if something obvious is letting the pressure bypass. May have simply had some debris go through and wipe out pump walls....
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
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From: Ohio
Thanks John. I have both...a manual gauge, and a pressure switch. Both seem to be about the same. I had been riding to the shop, and was at 65mph, manual gauge was at 0, but light was not on, so I figured I had about 2 or 3 lbs. Oil temp was at 172c. It was a pretty warm day. Hope its not the block. It is a Sputhe block, and I would hate to go there.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,117
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From: Poolville
A couple things you did quote..."35 in fifth" and ..."no noise just light and low gauge reading". A quick thing you can try is to either replace your pressure spring or take it out and stretch it a little to see if it increases pressure. If it does infact come up a bit then I would definitely repair or replace the oil pump. Another thing you said "oil temp 172c" if that was indeed correct then in fahrenheit that would be 341* definitely high. Also living in southern cal with the high ambient temps and "i am only saying possibly" a lean condition in the motor it will also create the same scenario. I do know that when I ride into Manhattan it doesn't even take 15 minutes and my oil temp is up and the motor gets noisy. You do have a built motor, Don't you?
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: So. California
My mistake. 172f. I did replace the pressure spring with a new one (yellow) from a spring kit. No change. The pump only has about 3k miles on it. I did a complete lower end rebuild then. New rods, bearing, rings, pistons, cam, SS oil pump (standard) and new crank pin. Bennett performance in Long Beach did the replacement of the Crank pin, rods, boring the jugs etc, and put the case back together with new bearings. I put it back in the bike, and put everything back on the motor. I was sure to prime the pump also before start up. Bore is 3.80, stroke is 4.625, Red shif 647 cam, Branch Heads, valves etc, Rhinehart exhaust, Mikuni 45 carb. Dyna 2000 ignition, SS lifters with limiters, and an SS reed valve in place of the breather gear.
The oil gauge and pressure switch share the line where the lifter screen is. And it is clear. Changed the oil last week and it was very clean. No sparkles, and no metal on the magnet. I am hoping that it is just bleeding in the cam cover, and not a cracked block. Yes it is a built motor, but not 'hog wild'.
And contrary to some, I do not lug this motor.
Last dyno was 107hp, and 115lbs tq.
The oil gauge and pressure switch share the line where the lifter screen is. And it is clear. Changed the oil last week and it was very clean. No sparkles, and no metal on the magnet. I am hoping that it is just bleeding in the cam cover, and not a cracked block. Yes it is a built motor, but not 'hog wild'.
And contrary to some, I do not lug this motor.
Last dyno was 107hp, and 115lbs tq.
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Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
My mistake. 172f. I did replace the pressure spring with a new one (yellow) from a spring kit. No change. The pump only has about 3k miles on it. I did a complete lower end rebuild then. New rods, bearing, rings, pistons, cam, SS oil pump (standard) and new crank pin. Bennett performance in Long Beach did the replacement of the Crank pin, rods, boring the jugs etc, and put the case back together with new bearings. I put it back in the bike, and put everything back on the motor. I was sure to prime the pump also before start up. Bore is 3.80, stroke is 4.625, Red shif 647 cam, Branch Heads, valves etc, Rhinehart exhaust, Mikuni 45 carb. Dyna 2000 ignition, SS lifters with limiters, and an SS reed valve in place of the breather gear.
The oil gauge and pressure switch share the line where the lifter screen is. And it is clear. Changed the oil last week and it was very clean. No sparkles, and no metal on the magnet. I am hoping that it is just bleeding in the cam cover, and not a cracked block. Yes it is a built motor, but not 'hog wild'.Last dyno was 107hp, and 115lbs tq.
The oil gauge and pressure switch share the line where the lifter screen is. And it is clear. Changed the oil last week and it was very clean. No sparkles, and no metal on the magnet. I am hoping that it is just bleeding in the cam cover, and not a cracked block. Yes it is a built motor, but not 'hog wild'.Last dyno was 107hp, and 115lbs tq.
Damn man what would you consider hog wild????
ps I like the right side primary, horn, and kickstand in your sig pic!!!
