Kill Switch Working Intermittently
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Stage II
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2
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From: Missouri
Kill Switch Working Intermittently
I've searched and read a few different threads related to the kill switch but nothing that seems to address my issue. Sorry if I missed anything. I will update tonight with more details. I honestly just wrote this off, but its bugging me that it doesn't work.
I have a 99FXST. The kill switch works about 5% of the time. I usually only flick it off just to test it now and then. The kill switch always fails in the "on" position. It will not kill the engine and it will also not prevent it from starting. In case this could have anything to do with the problem, the bike has an aftermarket fireball ignition that was installed before I bought it.
What I've tried to test:
I have a 99FXST. The kill switch works about 5% of the time. I usually only flick it off just to test it now and then. The kill switch always fails in the "on" position. It will not kill the engine and it will also not prevent it from starting. In case this could have anything to do with the problem, the bike has an aftermarket fireball ignition that was installed before I bought it.
What I've tried to test:
- Handlebar kill switch - I have removed the tank cover and found where the handlebar wires join the body wires. From there I tested the switch for continuity. It seems there is always continuity with the switch on and never continuity when the switch is off. This seems to prove that the switch is good, right?
- Ignition coil - Will update tonight. Its been too long since I tested it and I cant recall the outcome.
- Ignition module - I was unable to find how the kill switch interfaced with the ignition module.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 441
From: Tejas
Yes to the continuity test so it is good.
You should have 12 volts going to the switch and 12 volts coming from the switch when ON. 12 to and nothing from when OFF.
The 12 volts from the switch goes to the coil on earlier models, so check your wiring diagram to see where yours is headed.
Griz
You should have 12 volts going to the switch and 12 volts coming from the switch when ON. 12 to and nothing from when OFF.
The 12 volts from the switch goes to the coil on earlier models, so check your wiring diagram to see where yours is headed.
Griz
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,195
Likes: 3,085
From: NW AR
The aftermarket ignition may be a hint here. Someone has been mucking around in your wiring.
I see one of two problems: Either the switch itself is not opening up or someone wired the new ignition around the switch. When the switch is "not working," that is, the bike is running even with the kill switch in the off position, stop the bike with the ignition switch and then test for continuity of the switch without touching anything else and see if it is open. If not, there's your problem. If it is, then start following the wiring.
A previous thread with a similar problem found the junction plug area under the seat had been aggie rigged. The thing about your problem is the 5% of the time that it does work. 5% of the time, you put it in Off and you can not start the bike? Won't crank? And the other 95% of the time you put it in off it will crank? That sounds like the switch to me.
I see one of two problems: Either the switch itself is not opening up or someone wired the new ignition around the switch. When the switch is "not working," that is, the bike is running even with the kill switch in the off position, stop the bike with the ignition switch and then test for continuity of the switch without touching anything else and see if it is open. If not, there's your problem. If it is, then start following the wiring.
A previous thread with a similar problem found the junction plug area under the seat had been aggie rigged. The thing about your problem is the 5% of the time that it does work. 5% of the time, you put it in Off and you can not start the bike? Won't crank? And the other 95% of the time you put it in off it will crank? That sounds like the switch to me.
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Stage II
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
A previous thread with a similar problem found the junction plug area under the seat had been aggie rigged. The thing about your problem is the 5% of the time that it does work. 5% of the time, you put it in Off and you can not start the bike? Won't crank? And the other 95% of the time you put it in off it will crank? That sounds like the switch to me.
I will test the switch tonight to make sure it is getting voltage all of the time and cutting the voltage out when it is off.
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