The search function is really crappy on this site!!!
Good look finding anything with it.

 

Here is one of the older threads. Quite a read I must say
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...lp-needed.html

 

Thanks WP50, I was in the primary recently and there was nothing broke on the compensator. Made sure the nut was torqued to the factory spec. Didn't really look very closely at the clutch. Looks like I'm going back in.

 

I was going to suggest using Google, just add 'site:hdforums.com' to whatever you are searching for ... but it's weird. For some reason Kp877 has blanked many/all of his posts in that thread.

Why'd he do that?

https://www.google.com/search?&rls=e...e:hdforums.com

I'd do the true and balance anyway. I'm about to do mine. It's the only way you're going to know and remove it from the equation, and it'll leave a better engine anyway. Interestingly enough, I was just watching a video of RevPerf (and Tatro's) on just this, albeit an TC crank. You won't be "plugging and welding" an Evo's.

Rebuilding with a complete 4-5/8" stroker crank from S&S (makes 89") is going to cost around $960 something (plus shorter skirt pistons), so it's more expensive then it first seems. Rebuilding using S&S or Truett & Osborne 4-5/8" flywheels will add another $450-ish to the $350 charge for truing and balancing.

I looked into that once, and shops were keen to do it as it's an expensive job, but I wonder how it really stacks up performance-wise these days? I'm thinking it was a 'thing' when there were less cams around to add a similar performance while maintaining a short stroke.

If he was to consider it, I'd speak to the Predator engine mount people first about the new torque output. I know they were exploring a similar mount for the FLH frames but had issues with bigger engines (more torque) requiring stronger compounds. If the vibration is from elsewhere, the last thing he wants is more power right now.

 

From what I have been told and read mine was rare to say the least.

There is a friend that had a small amount of looseness in the rivets (he was in there anyway) and it didn't affect his vibration. He reused the clutch basket and replaced the front mount to help his.

Make sure to ck all things simple first. A clutch basket can be 175-350 dollars in just parts not to mention the price of crank work.

Good Luck
WP

 

Thanks Big Member, since I'm trying to stay in my 2500 dollar budget I wanted to keep my stock crank and cases. I want to build a good running daily rider using what I have. I've seen RevPerf's videos before and that what got me to think about using them.

I would think that the same thing they do with a twin cam crank would apply to an evo crank. I been researching this for a long time, the more I read the more confusing it gets. Was hoping to find a evo owner that had a true and balance done to see if it really made a difference, by Revolution or anyone else that does this. Good luck on your build. Hope to read more responses.

 

You've got a '98, so it's a 3 piece crank which bolts together.

That's the big difference. It just bolts together whereas the TC presses together, and part of their fix is to weld them up afterwards so they don't move.

There was a lot of talk for a while about TC cranks only being able to be fixed in a handful of places because of the press requirement, whereas with the Evo crank could be done in any local shop (which is where I am headed).

For example, R&R in NH only charge $190 to assemble & true an EVO crank assembly (3 or 5 Piece - balancing extra), and only $65 to inspect it. That'd save you, or allow you to spend money elsewhere.

I don't know what T&O charge in comparison but they're one of the originals ... 1968 with more than 40 years and over 15,000 flywheels installed sets. There's a Tatro video of him doing an Evo crank using a press, clamps, and a chisel and a big lead hammer which looks pretty brutal; and others of Truett & Osborn at work.

I understand the S&S cranks use the earlier 5 piece crank design which is a plus, as you can swop out the shafts too making it infinitely rebuildable. For example, on mine (a 3 piece) I have some grooving on the tip of the pinion shaft that irks me a little. Not enough to want to replace but enough to wish it wasn't there. How many miles do you see yourself keeping your bike for?

You can check your run out without specialist equipment by just mounting it in a lathe and putting some dial gauges on it, or getting a shop to. That'd give you an idea of whether it was worth going ahead. Int he cases you can measure the tip of the shaft, out of the cases you measure it close to the flywheels where it runs in the bearings.

 

This is my third Harley, I've had it about 2 years. I got more hours in it than money, it's old, it's an evo and a keeper. Even if I ever get a new one, this one will always be a never ending project. If I could find a reputable mechanic in N.W. Georgia who is well versed in evo's I would go there. Thanks again. I'll look up those others you mentioned.

 

Doc Slick in Sugar Hill near? About an hour away. He lists that he does cranks.

I can't give a personal recommendation, but his name has come up on the forum positively before. Funnily enough, his Facebook has a recent post about vibration coming from a bad chain set up. Seems to have all the proper equipment and get into the engineering of things.

But shipping tends to cost the same wherever it goes.

 

Big Member your right Doc Slick is about an hour away. R&R in NH sounds pretty good too. Thanks. So far no ones chimed in about the difference true and balancing makes on the evo. Trying to get some idea of to expect.