I think I remember reading about that in a history book hehe

umm mid 60's or earlier ?? I can remember being taught to retorgue after heat cycle or two,barley remember on what tho

WP

 

That was in the days of copper head gaskets and cast iron heads. Modern composite gaskets DO NOT NEED RE-TORQUING and if the bolts lose torque then you got other problems to fix.

 

I re-torque headbolts when I build a motor. Not a HD motor, because you have to pull the rocker boxes, etc., to do it right, but on other motors. I run them a few times, maybe up to 10 heat cycles, then retorque one bolt at a time in the proper sequence.

 

Then you are wasting your time my friend and if they are angle-tightened headbolts you are risking bolt failure.


Things are designed to be assembled like they should be done...no point buying a factory manual and then making your own **** up instead...

 

Well, when the factory manual says to retorque them, that's what I do, Spanners.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I think since I love this evo so much, I am going to pull the rocker box & bolts and re-torque them properly. I think they just weren't installed with the right torque specs. The gaskets from last summer were a complete set of James.

Here is that air cleaner by the way.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/505-190

 

Well of course but your post was misleading....as it implied you did it ad hoc...you gotta be careful what you say on forums because folk will follow your example!!!!

 

Heard tell of cylinder studs being put in upside down and causing problems even from the factory. Last build I put in S&S cyl studs and head bolts to make sure everything was done right. S&S make purty head bolts. Engine still tight and running strong.

 

Just because I am that guy, Evolution motors after 1984 do not have head bolts. They have head nuts.

 

Double tap