Dyno Update.....
Originally Posted by Prot;15..069487
What kind of baffles are in the pipe? Maybe a simple install of lollipops or the use of fiberglass wrap could help?
Although harder to get dialed in just right, a Mikuni carburetor could help, especially with the dip. They typically provide a smoother transition between different rpm ranges and better throttle response, the latter of which is hard to demonstrate on paper.
Although harder to get dialed in just right, a Mikuni carburetor could help, especially with the dip. They typically provide a smoother transition between different rpm ranges and better throttle response, the latter of which is hard to demonstrate on paper.
Actually I can believe that the mikuni works better. The biggest problem I have with the S&S is that when under load cruising in 5th or 6th gear @ 2750 or above where the main starts to come in, it's almost impossible to tune out the rich condition.
In an e-mail to S&S tech support they actually told me that a butterfly type carburetor will do exactly that. With 10% throttle opening and under load the drop in atmospheric pressure in the venturi will start to draw on the main jet and that there is no tuning that can be done to get rid of it. If I didn't have the wego I would not have ever seen it.
So Instead of ****ing around and trying to tune a pipe for low to intermediate range, it's just easier to do the pipe swap and retune.
And that's what I did tonight. Put the Bassani 2-1 on and immediately I was able to get a good AFR at idle. One thing That I was not able to do with the LSR. With a little rejetting I was able get get it running very nicely. I will need to get a few miles on this tune before I can make any attempt at another Dyno run.
So that's where I am at for now. I will say that I did not notice any drop in performance from the swap of the pipes.....
I'm happy with the results but was looking for more... I thought with the Wego III I would be able to dial in the AFR better than I did. I was able to get it close but not optimal and because of I fell a little short of my expected numbers. The AFR from 3500 rpm up to 6500 varied between 14.2 and 14.8.
The shop I took to suggested one up on the main and one down on the intermediate. I am currently running a .0295/68 with a 110 on the thunder jet...
According to the dyno sheet would you guys agree on going to a .028/70 and leaving the thunder jet alone?
I think with the jet change I might hit my expected numbers..
One more thing I really Don't think this pipe is truly helping me..... LSR C-style 2-1
Thanx Bob..
The shop I took to suggested one up on the main and one down on the intermediate. I am currently running a .0295/68 with a 110 on the thunder jet...
According to the dyno sheet would you guys agree on going to a .028/70 and leaving the thunder jet alone?
I think with the jet change I might hit my expected numbers..
One more thing I really Don't think this pipe is truly helping me..... LSR C-style 2-1
Thanx Bob..
Wow that low. I've been shooting for 13.3-13.6. For wide open throttle. For cruising I've been trying to get 14.0-14.3. Tough to get all ranges. Sometimes you have to sacrifice somewhere...
Personally think WOT AFR is engine specific, the 89" felt at home 13.2 - 13.4, the 130" will detonate in this range even at the #4 timing setting, had to drop to 12.5 to make it happy. Cruise is at 13.2 and idle is richer than that, reason? dam thing will pop out the carb if you don't feed it. Tach goes to the right, gas gauge goes to the left
Last edited by 1997bagger; Apr 22, 2016 at 05:03 PM.
Personally think WOT AFR is engine specific, the 89" felt at home 13.2 - 13.4, the 130" will detonate in this range even at the #4 timing setting, had to drop to 12.5 to make it happy. Cruise is at 13.2 and idle is richer than that, reason? dam thing will pop out the carb if you don't feed it. Tach goes to the right, gas gauge goes to the left
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