EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Some Basic Questions.....Horrendous Vibration

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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:28 AM
  #11  
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My experience with worn Cleve Bloc rubbers on the swingarm is the rear end feels loose. My experience with a front rubber is I always heard a knock as the rubber squished and let metal hit. The cleve blocs are a PITA and if you go that far, inspect and consider changing out your final drive belt.

On 1 I did have a bolt that broke off the football plate and let the swingarm move in the frame.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:43 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Scrmnvtwins
Not sure if you have what yo need but my $0.02

Vibration in a rubber mounted Evo is from mis-alignment in the rubber mount system. Your '89 is old enough the front rubber is most liekely squished or deteriorated. Basically the motor bounces on the front rubber as it pivots on the swingarm pivot shaft. Another common problem is the rubbers back at the swingarm under the football shaped plates with the chrome covers hiding the swingarm pivot shaft. If you don't have 1 get a good H-D Manual. After changing the (20 rubbrs in the rear and the 1 in the front align per the manual.

Basically, get it upright on a lift, place (2) weights in front of and outside each side of the front tire, (I use car jackstands). Tie string line to the top of a stand, go back around the rear tire and up to the other stand and tie it off. make the string line as high as possible on the front and rear tires. With the string just touching the front of the rear tire on both sides, the front wheel at rest straight should be centered in between the stringlines. Adjusting the front motor mount heim joint will correct misalignment. There is also a heim jointunder the tank to the heads. Get a manual before you decide to make any adjustments on the upper heim joint ASM
Thanks for that info. I do have a manual but the procedure seems overly complicated to me for some reason. I think there is something ina bind at the top engine mount. I had to remove the top bolt once to remove the voes and almost never got it back in. I had to loosen the bolts on the bracket at the heads to get it back together. Just seemed like something was tweaked but, I knew better than to mess with the hiem joints. I may have to let somebody smarter than me look at the alignment. The bike handles great and tacks perfectly with both hands off of the bars though.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:53 AM
  #13  
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I have removed Evo heads many times and never really jacked with that top mount. I replace jugs and heads and bolt the mounts back with no adjustments. I too found the manual over complicated and learned to keep it simple with the string line.

As long as things are bolted together on the top I would say it is most likely OK. if it was way off and very difficult to get the bolt back in the heim joint then I would say you have a sagging swingarm cleve bloc that is letting 1 side down. beyond that the front alignment is the biggest issue as it sets the centerline of the rear wheel in the centerline of the front wheel so it tracks straight.

basically the wheels are like gyroscopes running down the road and if they are out of alignment they tend to put things in a bind. Doesnt take long to run a stringline to see if it is out.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #14  
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You were smart enough to change the VOES so I am confident you can handle the string line. be a shame to pay 1 hr shop labor for some guy to tell you the alignment was OK. if you find it off then you have enough information to think about paying the shop.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 03:13 PM
  #15  
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Look through the Glide Pro videos, you can get by with one lazer by tracing the first line on the floor.

 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 03:40 PM
  #16  
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You said that the vibration is from 30 to 70mph but then state that you think it is engine related. You are comparing apples to oranges. If you think it is the engine you should have stated a RPM range, not MPH.

Did you shut the engine off in that speed range and the vibration went away? Do you run the RPM's the same for these speed ranges? Did you maybe loose a wheel weight??

Is the primary chain tensioned properly?? How about the secondary drive??

So my question is "How do you know it is the engine??"
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 06:48 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 89FLHTC
I knew better than to mess with the hiem joints.

Have you checked the heim joints themselves? They can become frozen, and introduce a lot of vibration. The ends should turn freely with your fingers..
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 09:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
Have you checked the heim joints themselves? They can become frozen, and introduce a lot of vibration. The ends should turn freely with your fingers..
I have not but thanks for that suggestion!
 
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Kabear
You said that the vibration is from 30 to 70mph but then state that you think it is engine related. You are comparing apples to oranges. If you think it is the engine you should have stated a RPM range, not MPH.

Did you shut the engine off in that speed range and the vibration went away? Do you run the RPM's the same for these speed ranges? Did you maybe loose a wheel weight??

Is the primary chain tensioned properly?? How about the secondary drive??

So my question is "How do you know it is the engine??"
I dont have a tach so, I used MPH. When I chop the throttle and pull in the clutch lever, the vibration goes away. Primary and drive belts are set to spec. The vibration has nothing to do with the tires/wheels/or balance. When I coast at 60-70 down a hill with the throttle chopped and clutch lever pulled, it is smooth as glass.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #20  
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I did completely remove the front motor mount and it looks good to me. No cracks, tears, etc. and it is still soft. Its the old style mount made of the softer compound so, I kinda hate to replace it with the new style mount.
 
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