Fxrs loose rectifier
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Bristol
Fxrs loose rectifier
Hi the dredded rectifier problem is back.
Early 1984 fxrs and the plug keeps loosing contact even with a retaining clip I can't get a good connection long enough to charge the battery, its been adjusted and manipulated to get an even tighter fit, it seems to me that the brass posts are too narrow to make a decent contact.
My question is, are there any mods that can be made to the connections? mine only seems to charge when the plug is at an angle, the posts are like chucking a Marlboro into a church hall.
The rectifier is a genuine HD part
Early 1984 fxrs and the plug keeps loosing contact even with a retaining clip I can't get a good connection long enough to charge the battery, its been adjusted and manipulated to get an even tighter fit, it seems to me that the brass posts are too narrow to make a decent contact.
My question is, are there any mods that can be made to the connections? mine only seems to charge when the plug is at an angle, the posts are like chucking a Marlboro into a church hall.
The rectifier is a genuine HD part
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,200
Likes: 3,089
From: NW AR
The stator might not be a genuine HD part.
Really, anything you can do to make it mechanically stay would help. Maybe if you soldered a blob onto each of the pins and got them kinda round and stuck it in connection, that might work, or mashed the pins out of round, maybe.
Some have just hardwired the thing and filled the hole with pookie, eliminating the plug altogether.
Really, anything you can do to make it mechanically stay would help. Maybe if you soldered a blob onto each of the pins and got them kinda round and stuck it in connection, that might work, or mashed the pins out of round, maybe.
Some have just hardwired the thing and filled the hole with pookie, eliminating the plug altogether.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 441
From: Tejas
My solution is a bit longer than the retainer clip and a lot more effort, but then you are done with it forever..
I go into the stator and remove the rubber completely and solder in an 8 inch pigtail to each of the stator wires. I run this out the hole of the case and silicone it closed inside and out.
I then use waterproof connectors to connect to the regulator. No looseness ever.
I've been doing this to my shovel for over 25 years now and it works perfectly..
Griz
I go into the stator and remove the rubber completely and solder in an 8 inch pigtail to each of the stator wires. I run this out the hole of the case and silicone it closed inside and out.
I then use waterproof connectors to connect to the regulator. No looseness ever.
I've been doing this to my shovel for over 25 years now and it works perfectly..
Griz
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Bristol
Cheers guys, did consider hard wire straight to stator, ps stator looks like it could be genuine original infact the entire bike looks original it only moved 500mls in 10yrs (sacrilege) the idea of maybe a touch of solder could work, can't crimp posts they are solid already been down that route.
This was a problem for many riders over the years I'm guessing the hard wire was the way to go
This was a problem for many riders over the years I'm guessing the hard wire was the way to go
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,072
From: Brighton, MI
My solution is a bit longer than the retainer clip and a lot more effort, but then you are done with it forever..
I go into the stator and remove the rubber completely and solder in an 8 inch pigtail to each of the stator wires. I run this out the hole of the case and silicone it closed inside and out.
I then use waterproof connectors to connect to the regulator. No looseness ever.
I've been doing this to my shovel for over 25 years now and it works perfectly..
Griz
I go into the stator and remove the rubber completely and solder in an 8 inch pigtail to each of the stator wires. I run this out the hole of the case and silicone it closed inside and out.
I then use waterproof connectors to connect to the regulator. No looseness ever.
I've been doing this to my shovel for over 25 years now and it works perfectly..
Griz
Few questions: did you use heat shrink on the solder joint where you added the 8 inches of wire? How did you prevent the silicone from oozing into the primary when you filled it silicone? I'm thinking adhesive line or "waterproof" heat shrink would be the way to go when adding additional wire to the old stator wires.
Did you use some super duper oil resistant wire and what gauge? Double insulate it with heat shrink?
This will be the fix the next time my stator plug starts to ooze oil. It's a bad design. YD
Remember that oil is itself an insulator (big, high voltage utility switches are filled with it), so there's not a lot of risk from having some seep into the joint inside the primary.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,072
From: Brighton, MI
I was also thinking it would give extra protection for the wires coming thru the hole in the block where it would be siliconed in place. Then leave the wires with just the regular insulation (no heat shrink) on the outside for flexibility.
I also read "the right stuff" gasket maker sets up faster and firmer than regular RTV and is black. Might be another/better option.
I have a perfectly good stator with a bad plug sitting around. I might just put this stuff together and have it ready for when my current one starts to weep/leak. YD
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 10
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From: Bristol
Good info guys going to try the easy option of blob of solder first before stripping things out, but anymore proven methods will be much appreciated.
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Bristol
Cheers Yankee dog, didn't think of that, putting some thought into it it's definitely a possibility. My only concern is how deep are the posts before they become detached from plug, it's not the end of the world if they become to loose the rectifier can be replaced for the cost of a few beers and a pack of ***s, or go with wiring it straight in if that does become the case.