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I changed the oil filter, cleaned it real good, rode it 30 miles to work and there is no sign of any leak. Most of the dirt and oil that was caked on, was around the stator plug. What is the fix for the stator plug, if needed.
This is copied from a post I made on this several years ago:
"I've had this problem with every Evo stator I've had. They all start to leak oil around the rubber plug. I've tried everything, even removing and reinstalling after coating the plug with RTV.
The proper material to use for this job is "flowable RTV", made by Permatex and sold at auto parts stores. This stuff is made for sealing windshield leaks and is designed to "wick" into cracks and gaps. Clean all the oil around the plug with contact cleaner and dry everything off. Then apply a thin bead of the flowable RTV around the statorplug where it exits the case. I use a small syringe and a 20 gage industrial (blunt end) needle-buy on Amazon. In a few minutes, the RTV will wick into the space between the plug and the case and disappear. Wait overnight for it to cure, ride and enjoy.
This worked for me, and my statorplug has been dry for over a year now."
The other, or "hard" way involves pulling the primary and replacing the stator, and hoping the new one doesn't leak.
This is copied from a post I made on this several years ago:
"I've had this problem with every Evo stator I've had. They all start to leak oil around the rubber plug. I've tried everything, even removing and reinstalling after coating the plug with RTV.
The proper material to use for this job is "flowable RTV", made by Permatex and sold at auto parts stores. This stuff is made for sealing windshield leaks and is designed to "wick" into cracks and gaps. Clean all the oil around the plug with contact cleaner and dry everything off. Then apply a thin bead of the flowable RTV around the statorplug where it exits the case. I use a small syringe and a 20 gage industrial (blunt end) needle-buy on Amazon. In a few minutes, the RTV will wick into the space between the plug and the case and disappear. Wait overnight for it to cure, ride and enjoy.
This worked for me, and my statorplug has been dry for over a year now."
Thanks G....I may have to do this....I used engine degreaser on mine under the oil filter area an this may be the cause....it was clean everywhere else.
Thanks G....I may have to do this....I used engine degreaser on mine under the oil filter area an this may be the cause....it was clean everywhere else.
The Evo stator plug is a poor design, as an oval plug in an oval hole will leak because the oval plug, molded around two socket contacts will eventually shrink into a "dog bone" shape. Almost every Evo engine I've looked at over the years (and that's a LOT of them) seems to have this problem.
My fix is probably only a temporary fix (what isn't?, you might ask), but mine's been dry for a couple of years now, and if it starts to seep again, it's an easy job to remove the RTV and re-do the job. It's a lot easier than pulling the stator each time.
Can't argue with that. I was eating batteries every two years until I discovered that I really didn't have a firm connection between the stator and the regulator. Xacto knife, a couple of small picks, and a pair of needle nose pliers fixed it.
Cometic Gaskets Top End Gasket Kit, STD Bore for Harley Davidson 1992-99 Evo arrived, will start taking it apart this weekend. I will inspect the cyl bores and pistons to see if it needs more work. It has 92,000 miles on it, but runs just fine, we will see.
This is copied from a post I made on this several years ago:
"I've had this problem with every Evo stator I've had. They all start to leak oil around the rubber plug. I've tried everything, even removing and reinstalling after coating the plug with RTV.
The proper material to use for this job is "flowable RTV", made by Permatex and sold at auto parts stores. This stuff is made for sealing windshield leaks and is designed to "wick" into cracks and gaps. Clean all the oil around the plug with contact cleaner and dry everything off. Then apply a thin bead of the flowable RTV around the statorplug where it exits the case. I use a small syringe and a 20 gage industrial (blunt end) needle-buy on Amazon. In a few minutes, the RTV will wick into the space between the plug and the case and disappear. Wait overnight for it to cure, ride and enjoy.
This worked for me, and my statorplug has been dry for over a year now."
The other, or "hard" way involves pulling the primary and replacing the stator, and hoping the new one doesn't leak.
I agree it's a bad design. I did not have much luck with the flow-able sealer. However, an oil drain plug O-ring slipped over the rubber female connector that protrudes from the block worked for me twice now. Put the O-ring on, and push it below the surface using a popsicle stick or something that won't cut into the plug or the O-ring. You want the ring to get below the surface a little. The soft rubber stator plug will "conform" a little and help the O-ring seal the leak.
It worked once on the original 20 year old plug, and again on the 2 year old replacement. Kind of sux to have to replace a stator just for the rubber plug. Next time I am eliminating the plug all together and running the wires thru the hole to a new connector closer to the regulator, and the hole will be filled with silicone. Others recommend if you replace the stator, completely coat the new rubber plug with silicone from the inside of the primary to prevent the oil from getting to the rubber plug in the first place.
I have confirmed that the rubber gets soft and as mentioned, "dog boned shaped". I think the O-ring fills in the narrow portion of the dog bone. YD
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