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How does the torque value of the axle nut have anything to do with the bearing end play ? If the correct spacers are used and the end play is already correct, I dont see how the torque on either the front or rear axle nut can make a difference. I must be missing something. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks
How does the torque value of the axle nut have anything to do with the bearing end play ? If the correct spacers are used and the end play is already correct, I dont see how the torque on either the front or rear axle nut can make a difference. I must be missing something. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks
We are talking about tapered bearings here:
The end play will not be correct until the nut is tightened and the inner races, inner spacers, and outer spacers are drawn together.
But the nut must not be torqued too tight, or it will deform (crush) the inner spacer, but it would take a huge grunt on the wrench to do that....
Originally Posted by das56170
Using the correct torque spec is critical with the axle nut. On my last bike (FXSTC) I misread the manual, and used the torque spec listed for and FXSTS which was only 10 ft lbs more than the FXSTC, and I could definitely tell that something was wrong. I could hear the bearings when riding the bike. When I re-torqued it using the correct torque number it was fine. That's one nut that you don't want to "just tighten" without a torque wrench.
I`m having a tough time with this explanation. When you torque the axle nut, it draws the races and spacers together, and a 10 pound increase will not affect the end play (unless the inner spacer is damaged).
The only way you could change the end play by increasing torque would be to over torque to the point of crushing the inner spacer, and if you did that, loosening the nut would not cure the problem.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jun 11, 2016 at 02:34 PM.
The end play will not be correct until the nut is tightened and the inner races, inner spacers, and outer spacers are drawn together.
But the nut must not be torqued too tight, or it will deform (crush) the inner spacer, but it would take a huge grunt on the wrench to do that....
I`m having a tough time with this explanation. When you torque the axle nut, it draws the races and spacers together, and a 10 pound increase will not affect the end play (unless the inner spacer is damaged).
The only way you could change the end play by increasing torque would be to over torque to the point of crushing the inner spacer, and if you did that, loosening the nut would not cure the problem.
Hey, I'm not an expert by any means. All I know is that when I over torqued the axle nut by 10lbs, I could hear it, while riding down the road. When I re-torqued it correctly, it went away, and I had no further issues.
The end play will not be correct until the nut is tightened and the inner races, inner spacers, and outer spacers are drawn together.
But the nut must not be torqued too tight, or it will deform (crush) the inner spacer, but it would take a huge grunt on the wrench to do that....
I`m having a tough time with this explanation. When you torque the axle nut, it draws the races and spacers together, and a 10 pound increase will not affect the end play (unless the inner spacer is damaged).
The only way you could change the end play by increasing torque would be to over torque to the point of crushing the inner spacer, and if you did that, loosening the nut would not cure the problem.
OK thats what I was thinking too. 10 lbs of torque over spec would never a cause a problem unless you had zero end play to begin with. With proper end play, you would almost strip the threads before you crushed one of the those spacers 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch. Thanks for clarifying. Thought I was loosing my mind!
Hey, I'm not an expert by any means. All I know is that when I over torqued the axle nut by 10lbs, I could hear it, while riding down the road. When I re-torqued it correctly, it went away, and I had no further issues.
The end play on that wheel was not properly set. Most "specs" are written by engineers and they intentionally write them conservatively. Staying within the specifications will ensure that the equipment works properly for the service for which it was designed. Yes, you can get away with exceeding the specs. But how far is too far? How long is too long? How fast is too fast?
On your wheel with THAT set of bearings in THAT particular circumstance, you were able to exceed the spec and "get away with it." But, again, how far is too far?
How does the torque value of the axle nut have anything to do with the bearing end play ? If the correct spacers are used and the end play is already correct, I dont see how the torque on either the front or rear axle nut can make a difference. I must be missing something. Can someone explain it to me? Thanks
With the bearings properly installed and the wheel on the bike, leave the axle nuts finger tight (torque setting of zero) and ride it around the block.
Races only NEED to be replaced if the bearing ran dry and got cooked up.. then there will be noticeable damage, yours are fairly new and not scored.... they are fine.
Oops I'm a little late here... skipped Laconia this year, always a good time, BE safe.
Last edited by glidein wide; Jun 12, 2016 at 08:18 PM.
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