96 RoadKing 55k miles. I have a scalloped front tire and found play in the wheel and I can hear some loundness from the front when i get upto 50mph or higher so I am attempting to replace the bearings. Everything came apart easily. I am wondering first if I really need to replace the races and if so how do I get them out. I wiped everything down and everything looks normal. I didn't realize until just now doing some reading that shims would be involved as when as dial indicators. I think the they were atleast regreased if not replaced about 10k miles ago when I had other work done.

 

How do the bearing look? Are you certain that the axle was properly torqued? I have changed wheel bearings, but never the races.

 

Ya like I said I didn't see any scoring on either the bearings or the races. The nut appeared very tight when I went to remove it.

 

the torque on the axle nut is important...sets the load on the bearing so it isn't too tight or loose. I think most evo's are 55 ft lbs.

 

If the races look OK, I would install some new bearings and check the field service manual to ensure that you have everything going back together correctly.

 

Using the correct torque spec is critical with the axle nut. On my last bike (FXSTC) I misread the manual, and used the torque spec listed for and FXSTS which was only 10 ft lbs more than the FXSTC, and I could definitely tell that something was wrong. I could hear the bearings when riding the bike. When I re-torqued it using the correct torque number it was fine. That's one nut that you don't want to "just tighten" without a torque wrench.

 

Weld a bead on the bearing side of the race, let it cool and the bearings will fall out, bad thing is a arbor press or small press is the best way to put the races back in.

 

With new bearings always replace the races...

To do it right, after installing new bearings and races, you need to check bearing play while axle is torqued to specs. There is a specific amount of play that should (and should not) be set in the bearings. You need to use shims to get the correct amount of play.

There is info posted here, on the web, in your manual, (get one if you don't have) and on YouTube on how to do it properly. A bearing puller/driver can be had on flea bay for about $25 bucks. A gauge and magnetic base can be had at harbor freight for about $20 bucks.

Sorry I would give more detail but am about 1000 miles from home and posting from my phone right now. Take the time to do it right and not worry about it while going down the road at 70 mph 500 miles from home. YD

 

Here's a video that I found to be pretty helpful regarding bearings and end play.

 

Can you just replace your bearings without changing the races? YES
Just make sure there is no discoloration or scratches on the races.
Will the purists tell you it's a bad idea? YES

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. IMO