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help with ss super E carb

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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 12:44 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by crazydawgs
Pretty much I'm saying that my mixture screw is set as far in as I can go to have the bike still runs decent
If the idle screw is all the way in then go to the next smaller idle jet and start over.
Rince and repeat until it is right.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #12  
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I just dropped the intermediate jet down to the .265 and retuned it plugs now show it on the lean side but they were horrible before. I'll run it and get new plugs toss them in and go for a ride and see what they look like
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by crazydawgs
I just dropped the intermediate jet down to the .265 and retuned it plugs now show it on the lean side but they were horrible before. I'll run it and get new plugs toss them in and go for a ride and see what they look like
Remember with the ethanol gas the plugs will look a dull white when it's right.
Maybe a very little tan but not much.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 02:45 PM
  #14  
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Your jets sound too small. .295 slow jet and 70-72 main should be close to right. If you're at 68 main and .265 slow jet and running rich there's a problem. Is your S&S a newer version with the removable air bleed jet? You may need to play with that also.

Is your accelerator pump set right? Did you do your jetting adjustments with the pump shut off like you're supposed to? Idle/air screw adjustments should start at 1 1/2 turns out and normally final set is about 1/4 turn either way. 2 turns out is a bit much. Unscrew it all the way and make sure the needle tip isn't damaged. If it is you're fooked.
 

Last edited by Hey Man; Jul 4, 2016 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:37 PM
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Yes I did the tune with accelerator pump off. My mixture screw is at 1 1/4 and yes its a new style ss super e with the removable air bleed screw.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:38 PM
  #16  
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Not exactly sure what to tell ya though I had a 28 slow and 70 main and it would run so rich it would gag you. Blow black smoke light up the night with backfire out of exhaust.



Now what baffles me like crazy is my rear cylinder seams to suck air in at idle and the rear exhaust is cold. Stock head pipes with 4 inch Vance and hines
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 09:19 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by crazydawgs
Not exactly sure what to tell ya though I had a 28 slow and 70 main and it would run so rich it would gag you. Blow black smoke light up the night with backfire out of exhaust.



Now what baffles me like crazy is my rear cylinder seams to suck air in at idle and the rear exhaust is cold. Stock head pipes with 4 inch Vance and hines
Just jet it to run your bike and don't worry about it.
It sounded like you were getting close earlier but if your rear cylinder is sucking air you need to fix that first before you can dial in your carb.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 10:05 PM
  #18  
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I'm going to leak down test it tomorrow and see what's up
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:40 PM
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From what everyone told me because I have stock head pipes it is normal for it to have suction on the rear as its scavenging it. So that still doesn't explain why it was running g way to rich and people say I'm jetted to low with a .265 and .68 jets
 
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 05:51 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by crazydawgs
From what everyone told me because I have stock head pipes it is normal for it to have suction on the rear as its scavenging it. So that still doesn't explain why it was running g way to rich and people say I'm jetted to low with a .265 and .68 jets
Stock head pipes shouldn't matter.
The rear will run just a bit richer than the front.

I too think those jets are too small but if they work for your bike then keep them.

Your plugs are way more accurate than anyone on the internet.
 
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