Oil present in stator plug, normal?
92 Fxr, pulled plug at front of case to diagnose charging issue. Case side is female, one of the sockets had primary fluid in it. Wondering if that was normal.
Regulator ohms infinite between the male terminals so apparently my regulator is bad. Recommended source for a decent new one?
Regulator ohms infinite between the male terminals so apparently my regulator is bad. Recommended source for a decent new one?
92 Fxr, pulled plug at front of case to diagnose charging issue. Case side is female, one of the sockets had primary fluid in it. Wondering if that was normal.
Regulator ohms infinite between the male terminals so apparently my regulator is bad. Recommended source for a decent new one?
Regulator ohms infinite between the male terminals so apparently my regulator is bad. Recommended source for a decent new one?
If I were you I'd get it from the local dealer.
The leaking of the oil is not normal. It's a common problem that your stator plug is slowly softening up and melting away. If you search, you will see lots of stator plug threads.
What is probably going on is the oil in the primary is wicking up the wire from under the insulation in your primary. The way the wires are attached to the stator the oil can get up in the sealant that they use at the stator to wire connection (especially with age). You can nurse it along and try to prevent further wicking by using a non setting sealer (like hylomar or similar) and push some of it in the female wire terminals before you re-connect the new voltage regulator.
As far as regulator, after checking the Dr Hess Electrical sticky:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...ng-system.html
if you determine it is your regulator, I like this one:
https://compufire.com/harley/voltage-regulators.html
It can be had for about 20 to 30 bucks less at other sources. Read about how it works, it is different than the stock unit and runs cooler as it is a series type regulator instead of the shunt type like the stocker.
"Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.
Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode."
It all boils down to personal preference. YD
What is probably going on is the oil in the primary is wicking up the wire from under the insulation in your primary. The way the wires are attached to the stator the oil can get up in the sealant that they use at the stator to wire connection (especially with age). You can nurse it along and try to prevent further wicking by using a non setting sealer (like hylomar or similar) and push some of it in the female wire terminals before you re-connect the new voltage regulator.
As far as regulator, after checking the Dr Hess Electrical sticky:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...ng-system.html
if you determine it is your regulator, I like this one:
https://compufire.com/harley/voltage-regulators.html
It can be had for about 20 to 30 bucks less at other sources. Read about how it works, it is different than the stock unit and runs cooler as it is a series type regulator instead of the shunt type like the stocker.
"Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.
Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode."
It all boils down to personal preference. YD
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