1991 FLHS electrical problems
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed the headlight wasn't on, randomly, on 2 different occasions. Now, nothing-no headlights, no lights in the speedo and won't start. Not even a click from the solenoid. I pulled the ignition out, took it apart, cleaned up the contacts inside it and put it back together. I tested it with a multimeter before I put it back in and it tests ok. I have 12+ volts going to it. I have checked for loose wires, connections and good ground. Still no lights-nothing. I also have a 1992 FLHTC, so I swapped out the starter relay thinking that would be another quick check and I still have nothing. I'm wondering about the main breaker that is mounted next to the starter relay. I was reading some of the other posts and they mentioned jumping it with a screwdriver. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Last edited by 7!sprint; Sep 2, 2016 at 09:52 PM. Reason: Misspelled
No power at all is relatively easy to diagnose. Start at one end and work your way towards the other with a meter. Even a (gasp) test light can work in this fashion. Ground the meter to the engine case, start poking with the other lead, when you find that the +12v stops, there's your problem.
One thing that Harley did right (among others)with the Factory service manuals of our era was to include a comprehensive wiring diagram(s) including color codes for the wires along with a trouble shooting flow chart that have helped me many times with my 92' FLHS electrical issues. If you still have the stock wiring intact check the main circuit breaker relay for power out with ignition on. Also check the battery connections at the battery and the ground relay connections for corrosion as these are the two items that would cause a total loss of power. Like Dr. Hess said follow the flow of power from the battery leads until the power loss. I vaguely recall loss of head light from a loose connection to a relay (circuit breaker) under the speedo/Tach unit once on mine. Hopefully it's something simple. Good Hunting. Keep the shinny side up :P
I have determined the one year old battery was shot. Also found a short in the wiring harness near the headlight. I don't have a battery load tester, but it would put out a little over 12 volts to the ignition switch, but when I would turn the ignition switch it would just suck down the voltage. I stuck another battery in it. Then I pulled the ignition apart again and stretched the spring out a little bit, it's under the plastic piece with the contacts on it, and that seemed to fix it. I've heard intermittent results from taking apart the ignition but if you're careful, it can be done. I'll fix the wire in the plug by the headlight tomorrow and finish reassembling tomorrow. Seems like the ignition was the major issue. Thanks for the suggestions Electric Greaseball and Dr Hess. I read the forums quite a bit, looking for answers but this is the first time I couldn't find the "cure"!
You may also want to check the contacts on your ignition switch. Remove the switch, clean and grease it or replace with a new one.
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Glad You found the problem(s) 7!sprint. I keep a 1.5 Schumacher automatic battery tender on my 92' and 98' when they are sitting for a spell. I had problems with the battery on the 98' and went with the American Made Yuasa battery that is sealed from Summit Racing after the super duper name brand died after 9 months with a Chinese Bull@#$! warranty and have had zero issues with it, when the 92' FLHS battery gave up the ghost I slipped a Yuasa in her. I don't know about others experience with Yuasa but these are running very strong going on two years. Glad you got her sorted out :P
The rectifier/voltage regulator was replaced last year. And a Yuasa battery was installed last year also. The battery was showing good voltage til I put a load on it. That's why I thought I had a short in the wiring. I put the same battery in my 92 FLHTC. I figured it was an easy fix, so that's how I approached it. Battery cables, ground........ and so on. I never thought that the battery would show 12 volts on it and still be shorted. Again, thanks for all the input. One thing for sure, you never quit learning until you stop trying!!







