When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just got this '89 sportster in November, 26k miles. It's my first Harley. I've got probably 75 miles on it so far.
The gaskets at the base of both heads are leaking pretty bad, so I'm going to replace those. I assume there's plenty to check and fix along the way, but I might need some help building a to-do list.
The old paint on the heads is chipping and flaking really bad. I'll probably see if I can find a local place to sand blast and powder coat those. I don't have the tools for that. Maybe gray or black? I haven't decided on a color yet. I don't have any idea of price on this yet...
The gaskets at the base of the push rods are also leaking a little, so I'll replace those too. I haven't researched this much - not even sure if there are gaskets there - maybe just O-rings?
Is there anything with the valves that I should check while I'm in there? I've got some decent measurement tools.
Part B - the effing transmission...
The previous owner had problems with the transmission and clutch. I actually got the bike in a partially disassembled state. I got it back together and I'm not having too many problems except some occasional hard shifting, occasional floppy/loose shifting and a hidden neutral now and then. I might replace the clutch plates just because it's not terribly difficult or expensive. While I'm at it I can pull the trans out, but I'm not sure what I'd be looking for. Any insight?
Every sporty I had always had a clutch throwout bearing issue when they got older. I am sure you can get the heads sandblasted but be careful with the valves and the sand. You don't want that stuff left over in your heads mixing with the oil. Take it step by step and check every tolerance as you get into things for their wear limits.
If you treat that bike right it will treat you right. A wise Harley mechanic pence told me: make love to it don't **** it
Thanks for the tip. The bearing is maybe $10 so I might just replace that while I'm at it. Probably replace the ticking time bomb stock clutch with an extra plate set. Anyone had luck with a DIY compression tool for the clutch?
Post a picture of the leak at the heads. I have a suspicion about that but if I say it now I will sound like a jackass.
Convert it to belt drive. It is easy to do and will ride so much smoother.
It looks like you have straight pipes on it. If they don't have any baffles in them, install some to get back the low end torque. The Screaming Eagle air cleaner kit for that year will flow a lot better than stock. I am talking the whole kit, not just a drop in filter.
Get those two things taken care of and reject the carburetor. I went with a dynojet jet (at the time it was sold as a screaming eagle branded kit). which will get your fuel air mixture right and improve throttle response, especially due to a different slide and spring. Long ago I had a 91 Sportster and remember all the stuff I did to it despite not having much money.
It's been written that the only two things wrong with a Sportster are the left shock and the right shock.
Pick up a copy of The Sportster Performance Handbook by Buzz Buzzelli. Lots of great information in there and entertaining reading.
Cut down those slash-cuts and put some mufflers on it, so the poor thing has half a chance of running right! Otherwise looks fine. I recently replaced the stock clutch on my 1990 Glide with a +1 Barnett set and that odd plate was fine. I'm not sure why Sporties seem to have problems with them, but it is a good idea to replace the set - fresh bike, fresh start!
Oil leak image attached. I've since globbed some permatex gray silicone on there to try and get it to stop. I really wanted a temporary solution so I could drive it a bit and try to figure out if anything else is wrong. The silicone did not hold up but it may have slowed it down some. I think the rear cylinder is also leaking from the back side of that same gasket. It's not as quick as the front though.
I actually have the stock pipes as well. I couldn't imagine getting more torque out of this thing. I'm still too chicken to use all of its power as it is. I don't really trust the thing mechanically yet. Throttle response is ok at best now. Honestly for the time being I'm totally fine with the performance I'm getting. What I really want is reliability so I can take it on some longer trips.
And yes - belt drive would be great. Looks like my rear sprocket is worn a good amount, so it might not be bad to go ahead and do that. I don't need a new rim for that do I?
That's the base basket leaking, not the head gasket. The base basket goes between the cylinder jugs and engine case. That's a bit more work than changing a head gasket but it isn't terrible. The straight pipes can cause a lean running condition unless the carburetor has been rejetted and adjusted. Running too lean can damage the engine.
They make a kit to convert from chain to belt drive. The kit has front and rear sprockets, the belt, and upper and lower belt guards. It's pretty easy to do.
I have circled the area that I think you are referring to that is leaking, if that is it, then that's the aforementioned base gasket.
I've heard some people have had luck with cleaning the base gasket leak thoroughly then laying super glue along the base. Can't hurt to try, but bottom line is that those leaks aren't fatal as long as you maintain the correct oil level as you ride.
A CV or S&S E would be a major improvement. Enjoy.
If there is syntheshit oil in the engine you could try changing it with real engine oil(conventional) ,clean that area up and see if it slows back at all or stops leaking all together....
GW
I had a pretty good amount of silicone on there but it still didn't hold up. I'll probably just replace that gasket. I'll hold off on the belt drive for now hah. I may want to clean up the chain and sprocket. I can take them off and soak them. The sprocket definitely has some life left in it if I can keep everything clean and lubed.
I have no idea the condition and jetting of the carb. The previous owner never mentioned doing any work to it and everything seemed way too tight when I went through the carb to clean it. Either a rookie went in there or just from sitting for 13 years. I don't get much popping in the exhaust which would be a clear sign of running really lean.
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Slideshow: Killer Custom's latest build relies on styling changes rather than performance upgrades, giving the cruiser an entirely different personality.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Building My Winter To-Do List
