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Getting ready to order a seal kit for my forks and maybe progressive springs. I'm looking at the Bel-Ray fork oil but the service manual says nothing about the weight of it, only capacity in ozs. They have six choices.... from 5w to 30w. Not sure which one I would like best, can someone explain how it affects the action ?
Thanks GW
Also any tips that are not in the manual will be appreciated as I have not been in the forks before.
Last edited by glidein wide; Jan 8, 2017 at 02:05 PM.
I use HD Fork Oil so I can't help with that. You mentioned service manual, the factory manual will give you the best information.
Loosen the fork caps while the tubes are still in trees. It's very hard to do it after they are removed unless you have a good way to hold the tubes. A small impact works real good at removing the damper screw from the bottom of the sliders. I don't think the sliders on your bike have drain screws, so you need to remove the fork caps and turn the tubes upside down to drain the old oil ... drain them before removing the damper screws.
Follow the factory manual for the rest ... it's actually pretty straight forward.
10 weight is OEM. If your getting a complete seal kit and are breaking the front end down completely then clean all the old residue out. Not sure what the manual says for fluid refill amounts. They usually give an amount that is minimum and max. A max amount will increase the firmness just smidgen. If your looking for a firm feel then 20 weight will get you there. The progressives alone are sensitive to the road. I also went with a half inch longer than their stock suggestion on the plastic spacer and it actually picked the front end up tad... I love the feel in my fatboy. Keep mind your FX is lighter than FL SO if you Don't like the feelin the 1/2" longer plastic spacer Can slays be shortened.... Let us know how you set it up.
I'm changing mine before riding season starts. I picked up some Screamin Eagle fork oil off the clearance table a few years ago an never used it....I think it's 15 wt an stock is 10 wt. I don't know if it's ever been changed in my 99. it has 19K on it now.
DO NOT USE A BALL END ALLEN WRENCH FOR THE BOTTOM BOLT.
Well you can but then you will be buying a new bolt and carefully drilling out the head on the stripped out bolt so you can get the lower leg off.
I learned from my mistake you don't have to.
I used 15 wt bel ray but it was kind of a harsh ride so I went with the 10wt bel ray and am happy with the ride.
DO NOT USE A BALL END ALLEN WRENCH FOR THE BOTTOM BOLT.
Well you can but then you will be buying a new bolt and carefully drilling out the head on the stripped out bolt so you can get the lower leg off.
I learned from my mistake you don't have to.
I used 15 wt bel ray but it was kind of a harsh ride so I went with the 10wt bel ray and am happy with the ride.
I used mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid. 10.2 ounces dry and 9.2 wet is what I seem to remember for my dyna. It has a 9.8 cSt at 100* celcius. It feels just right to me.
And I also like the replacement fork caps that have the separate center fitting that can be removed for fluid changes without removing the entire cap and having to deal with the springs.
I figure yearly changes with synthetic fluid and the fact that you installed new springs and seals, you wont need to mess with anything except fluid changes for a long time, so make the fluid changes easier on yourself. YD
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