Fork Oil
Same as your set up.
That's why I said that socket and a palm ratchet would make the job much easier.
I was talking about reassembly.
This socket is expensive (you can probably find it cheaper elsewhere) but with it and a palm ratchet the job is much easier.
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Theirs is about half that price, or was, excellent fit and they shipped fast. Heavy black socket, like an impact socket. I only get the front page on their website now, but the phone number is there. Mine were so tight I used an air impact wrench, and that took them right off.
If your seals are leaking why are you changing fork oil now? Tear them down and replace all the pieces in the assembly. Not just the seals. It really isn't that bad.
Also check your front rotor and brake pads for fork oil contamination if they have been leaking for awhile.
Also check your front rotor and brake pads for fork oil contamination if they have been leaking for awhile.
So today I tried rubber in my vise and a open end 13/16" wrench and no go,I can see why might need that Socket with impact gun.
So Tex...your saying the manual is wrong about the spring tension with the wide glide? I will be on alert, if I can remove them.
So Tex...your saying the manual is wrong about the spring tension with the wide glide? I will be on alert, if I can remove them.
If your seals are leaking why are you changing fork oil now? Tear them down and replace all the pieces in the assembly. Not just the seals. It really isn't that bad.
Also check your front rotor and brake pads for fork oil contamination if they have been leaking for awhile.
Also check your front rotor and brake pads for fork oil contamination if they have been leaking for awhile.
I have yet to pull apart a fork that didn't have at least a little tension on either the plug (big twins) or fork cap (sportsters).
It ain't a whole lot but it is there.













