I've used them in the past with good success. After I bought a mighty-vac I haven't had a need for them. The vacuum bleeder usually works slick as snot. Not this time though, hence the post.

 

I have learned in recent years to get the speed bleeders for all my vehicles when it comes time to bleed lines. Helps to make it a one man job on vehicles. Not needing a 2nd person to pump the pedal.


They worked well on the Glide fronts too with extended lines. I had also planned on rebuilding the master cylinder at that time. I think I ordered the wrong kit, so when in the middle of it I just left that alone, got system fresh fluid eventually and buttoned it up.

 

To bleed Harley brakes you need a syringe, at least 10cc and a rubber hose to attach the syringe to the bleed nipple. You then bleed the brakes backwards (putting fluid in through the bleed nipple) keep an eye on the reservoir level and take fluid from there when it gets too full.


Brake is bled when the bubbles stop and you get brake fluid trying to hit the ceiling.


Then pump lever until the brakes adjust up.

 

Hey guys, just wanted to give an update. Went through the entire brake system. Rebuilt all three calipers, both master cylinders and installed braided lines front and rear. Bled them using my vacuum bleeder, everything went smoothly. Tried to go for a test ride and had to come back. The rear brake is dragging. It felt good initially, but about 8-10 miles in the bike felt really low on power. I shut it down and started looking for a place to pull over. Bike pretty much stopped itself. It did roll easy enough I was able to execute a 3 point turn using only my feet. Headed home and pedal would almost go to the floorboard. Still had a little brake though. Got home and pulled the saddle bag. Rotor and caliper very hot, lol. Now that it's cooled off, the pedal is stiffer. So, I'm going to tear back into it. Not really sure what it might be. Hoping I'm able to figure it out easy enough.

Front brakes work great!