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Brake bleeding help 91 EGC

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Old May 10, 2017 | 07:37 AM
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Default Brake bleeding help 91 EGC

Hey guys, tried to change my front brake fluid last night and I'm having some trouble. I've got a vacuum bleeder. Hooked it up to the bleeder valve just like I have many times before. Only got a few ounces of fluid out then nothing. Tried the other side, same result. The bike still has the factory rubber lines and I'm guessing it's collapsed. Wanted to get some other opinions before I tear the bike apart. I had the lid off the master cylinder and both holes in the bottom are clean. We tried pumping the lever to get the fluid moving, still nothing. Bleeder screws and calipers are clean and clear. I can put 25" of vacuum on it and it will hold, so there's no leaks, but no fluid movement either. Am I missing something? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 09:54 AM
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I guess cracking open the brake line fitting/banjo is next. See if fluid comes out there at the caliper banjo. YD
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 05:24 PM
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When was the last time the master cylinder was rebuilt?
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 06:30 PM
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If it were mine. Rebuild the master cylinder, and both calipers. Then put on a new braided line and use new dot5.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Hackd
When was the last time the master cylinder was rebuilt?
That I do not know. I believe it may need some attention though. The brakes worked ok until I tried to change the fluid. Go figure!

Originally Posted by Yamaharley
If it were mine. Rebuild the master cylinder, and both calipers. Then put on a new braided line and use new dot5.
I think this is what I'm going to do. After working on it for a few hours again this evening, I think I've got an obstruction somewhere in the system. We were able to get some fluid through, but it would stop intermittently. Then stopped altogether. I can't make any sense of it.

Thanks for the input!
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Try old fashioned bleeding it without the vacuum
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 08:58 PM
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This is just my experience in dealing with auto brake systems and some bikes.

Trace any hard lines (piping) and ck for any crimps or flattened out area's.
Take the line off at the M/cyl, use a pair of needle nose vice grips and pinch the rubber line going to a caliper. It wont. take much pressure on the grips to pinch the line closed. Wrap a bunch of rags around the fitting that goes to the M/cyl. Remove a bleeder screw and with compressed air blow back into the caliper. Not a 100 psi about 30-40 more than enough. Repeat with other caliper.

Do be aware that this will blow brake fluid back out of the fitting at the master cylinder. Dot 3or 4 eats paint Dot 5 not so much BUT if someone in the past has added dot3 or 4 to the system you need to cover and protect yourself and the bike. Big sheet of painters plastic comes to mind.

If you can get a fair amount air from each side I'd rebuild the master cylinder. DO NOT put compressed air back through the M/cyl while still together They don't like it. Once M/cly is disassembled ok to blow out passages, again not a 100 psi.

If you feel you want to flush the system out you can use Denatured Alcohol from a paint supply store or Home Depot or such. done it many times

Good Luck

WP
 
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Old May 15, 2017 | 12:10 PM
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https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...991-flhtc.html


Maybe this will help out some? Looks like I went through the same kind of thing when I upgraded my bars a while back.
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 06:32 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys! I decided over the weekend that I'm just going to rebuild the entire brake system and install new braided lines. There's something screwy with the master cylinder and/or I've got an obstruction in the line somewhere. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again!
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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You might consider Speed Bleeders as well. Used them on the drum brakes for my 64 El Camino and just installed them on a friend's 75 FLH. Works great on both. Cheap investment on a great return IMO.
 
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