And don't forget the Wood cams, especially the W6.

 

Definitely a great Cam... Ran one for years. Does need a little bump in compression to make it shine though....

 

Not wrong this time! it is same numbers

EV27 has been installed in many many Evo's and the most popular but always the chance of a clatter, being in a light bike it will work just fine tho. W6 is a EV on a little bit of steroids but needs some matching part attention. V Thunder 3000 and 3010 gets the job done with less valve train shock. S&S is S&S and has good performance parts.

If you like to ride in normal conditions of normal riding and don't go over 4500 rpms then a EV27 is not going to be your cam and a EV13 or V Thunder 3000 will suit you. If you sometimes like to flog your engine a little then a EV27 will be your friend, still going to need a jet change and common to set those lifters a .140 depth instead of .150 to tame some noise. EV27 and W6 gets it's power from aggressive lobes like a race profile that still keeps a early intake closing to be known as compression builders, EV27 has a earlier intake closing than the W6 but both are tough to beat in the giddy up category.

Happy choosing, just don't get talked into a cam with a 44-45 intake timing or you will be needing a pusher vehicle to get accelerating. Don't get talked into a "magic" cam, it takes a bunch of work to get a Evo to pull hard early and all the way to the rev limiter, need to have a thick wallet, no magic. Just choose your riding style like the members on here are saying

 

This site has tons of information, and this page specifically condenses it down to an easier to understand format

https://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdstage2.htm

FWIW, I went with an EV13, a few complimentary parts, and a little bit of mild headwork. That was a few years ago and I am still extremely happy with the results. It works in the normal day to day riding I do yet still has room to stretch out on the interstate. It pulls hard from idle, launches from a red light like a much lighter bike than it is, and pulls out of curves and corners while the TC103 Street Glides disappear in my mirrors. I never had it on a dyno and my numbers are probably not very big, but it was never about chasing a number for me. It was always about making good broad based torque where I need it and making it feel the way a Harley should feel in my mind.

 

I put in a EVL-3010 in my Road King. Very happy

 

So where does the ev23 fall into things? How does it compare to some the cams mentioned like the 3000, or the 3010? I assume ev23 comes in later than the 13 but earlier than the 27?

I hear good things about the 27, but not a fan of the extra noise that I hear about from so many that have one. Is the 13 and the 23 noisy like the 27? YD

 

There are two types of noise that you can experience after a cam change.

The first is gear whine noise. This is caused by wear pattern of the old vs new, size, tolerance, etc. This can be eliminated by pressing the gear off of the old cam and pressing it onto the new cam.

The second is valve train noise, typically heard as tapping. It has many causes, most of which are harmless but if excessive, may indicate a potential problem such as a worn part, collapsed lifter, etc.

V-Thunder cams have less aggressive ramps than some of the other manufactures so they can potentially be somewhat less noisey.

if two cams have the same duration etc. but one has more lift, then the one with more lift may be somewhat louder. That's basically what many of the Woods cams are. Unless you have some head and / or valve work done, going with lifts much higher than .500 won't gain you much more on a stock head / valve and will produce more noise and in some cases may require stiffer springs which again means more noise and valve train wear.

If you select a cam that can still use your stock springs, then the amount of lift is not the source of the noise and instead a rapid rise and fall in some designs might be.

In some cases, under certain conditions, it is possible that using adjustable pushrods might help quiet the valve train if the source of the noise is excessive slack. Most of the time, the stock solid pushrods are just fine and will not make a difference in the noise.

A high mileage engine with excessive wear to begin with will more likely exhibit more noise after a cam change than a low mileage minimum wear engine due to tolerances still being tight in all the components.

Some engines with the stock cam make a lot of tapping noise while others make very little. In that situation, Rock Out makes some bushings that can help if the source of the noise is in the rocker arms.

The viscosity and type of oil can also affect valve train noise. Another factor is the valve train makes more noise in the summer than in the winter or cooler temperatures.

These engines are designed for loose tolerances and to be able to run even when stuff is broken or worn out. There are dissimilar metals involved in some parts which means the expansion and contraction rates are different. That is why some of the tolerances must be somewhat sloppy compared to say a Rolls Royce.

So, an Evo is supposed to have a fair amount of mechanical noise. The cooling fins and cavernous rocker boxes amplify the noise making it sound much worse than it actually is. The new Milwaukee 8 has considerably less mechanical noise despite twice the number of valves, but its a different era and has a way different feel to it.

Bottom line, avoid the most radical cams, use a good somewhat thicker multi viscosity oil made for the extreme temperature fluctuations, don't cheap out on lifters, and use an exhaust sufficiently loud enough to drown out many of the normal mechanical noises but still quiet enough to let you hear when something abnormal is happening.

Here are the specs and information about the various Andrews cams. Andrews grinds the cams for Woods and a few others.

http://www.andrewsproducts.com/sites...014-page13.pdf

If it ain't making noise, it ain't running. It's an Evo, not an electric motor.

 

I don't think it does. Although it's a bit better than the stocker, i don't think it's worth it for all around.....

 

Jerry, happen to have any base gasket leaks?

To me, a EV13 is a waist of time in a dyna, go EV27 or EV3, or even a EV46 with a compression bump.

A while back, I was asked to install a cam in a '96 Wideglide.

The dealer sold him a cam and adjustable pushrods when he bought the bike new in '96, but never installed, it was an EV46, the bike had a SE A/C and V&H pipes already.

I told him with that cam, it would be a little soft under 3k.
He wanted that cam.

Luckily, He also had a rear base gasket leak he wanted fixed.

So I went in, checked and used .010" base gaskets to get near zero deck height, used .030" head gaskets to get the compression up some, installed the cam, Johnson Hylift lifters, and rejet the carb.

The owner is happy, bike runs great, the valve train is silent, pulls harder on bottom than it did with the stock cam, and quick to bump the rev limiter.

More confusion for ya.

 

Ev23 is a mild improvement over stock cam. Ran one in my fltr and went to a Wood w6. Night and day difference! W6 is not a bolt in however, you need bigger jets, adjustable pushrods and a new iggy. As mentioned a bump in compression really helps.