I need some help please
1996 fatboy
I installed new handlebars.
I cut into the wiring under the handlebar by the forks. Soldered back together.
Then I realized I cannot fish the wire through the new bars so I went for external wiring.
But with the external wiring my master cylinder clamp will not screw in . I tried to tighten it best I can but then the Master cylinder clamp is cutting in to a power wire and shorting out the bike. So it seems I am forced to wire internal. Otherwise I cannot clamp down my hand controls.
So the bike is sitting here with the hand controls off. I am looking for what to do and how to do
I am guessing I need to pull tank off and rewire the whole harness up to the hand switches and go through the bar?
I would appreciate any help , I am not a super handy guy but not too bad if I can get some guidance
So where should I start?
I installed new handlebars.
I cut into the wiring under the handlebar by the forks. Soldered back together.
Then I realized I cannot fish the wire through the new bars so I went for external wiring.
But with the external wiring my master cylinder clamp will not screw in . I tried to tighten it best I can but then the Master cylinder clamp is cutting in to a power wire and shorting out the bike. So it seems I am forced to wire internal. Otherwise I cannot clamp down my hand controls.
So the bike is sitting here with the hand controls off. I am looking for what to do and how to do
I am guessing I need to pull tank off and rewire the whole harness up to the hand switches and go through the bar?
I would appreciate any help , I am not a super handy guy but not too bad if I can get some guidance
So where should I start?
It sounds like you bought the wrong handlebars for your bike.
You should have some dimples in the bars that allow the wires to get past the brake m/c clamp and the clutch perch.
As for where you should start I'd suggest getting different bars.
You should have some dimples in the bars that allow the wires to get past the brake m/c clamp and the clutch perch.
As for where you should start I'd suggest getting different bars.
there is a little dimple there but the wires vhave been soldered and are bulky that's why
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I managed to get the wire in a position to be able to clamp the MC clamp down.
now my issue is the brake like will turn off .
The switch work s. I tested. And if I get the lever pin out and move it 1/32 of an inch then the lever engages the switch but as soon as I put the brake lever bolt back in then it does not engage
There is nothing that goes between the brake lever and the switch right? I want to make sure that I did not drop anything and missed it
I managed to get the wire in a position to be able to clamp the MC clamp down.
now my issue is the brake like will turn off .
The switch work s. I tested. And if I get the lever pin out and move it 1/32 of an inch then the lever engages the switch but as soon as I put the brake lever bolt back in then it does not engage
There is nothing that goes between the brake lever and the switch right? I want to make sure that I did not drop anything and missed it
You may have to replace the wire harness from the controls to where they hook up. this link may help. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....H%20ASSEMBLIES
Good advice, and regarding running the wires internally, and a tip for others who might be planning the same thing, when you cut and splice the wires, each splice in each separate wire should be staggered so you don't create one large "lump" of splices all at the same spot. Might make it easier to fit the wires and the splices inside the bars.
Taking the switches apart to remove old wires and solder in new wires is not impossible, but very difficult. The switches are built with metal tabs holding them together and the tabs can break when taking (bending them) them apart, and you have pretty small springs and detent ***** that are easy to lose. Again, difficult but not impossible. You can usually get one disassemble/reassemble out of it before the metal tabs start to get work hardened and break YD
Closer inspection revealed that the rubber boot on the out side of the brake light switch has been torn off.
Does this mean the switch is toast ?
Does this mean the switch is toast ?
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Good advice, and regarding running the wires internally, and a tip for others who might be planning the same thing, when you cut and splice the wires, each splice in each separate wire should be staggered so you don't create one large "lump" of splices all at the same spot. Might make it easier to fit the wires and the splices inside the bars.
Taking the switches apart to remove old wires and solder in new wires is not impossible, but very difficult. The switches are built with metal tabs holding them together and the tabs can break when taking (bending them) them apart, and you have pretty small springs and detent ***** that are easy to lose. Again, difficult but not impossible. You can usually get one disassemble/reassemble out of it before the metal tabs start to get work hardened and break YD
Taking the switches apart to remove old wires and solder in new wires is not impossible, but very difficult. The switches are built with metal tabs holding them together and the tabs can break when taking (bending them) them apart, and you have pretty small springs and detent ***** that are easy to lose. Again, difficult but not impossible. You can usually get one disassemble/reassemble out of it before the metal tabs start to get work hardened and break YD
You could start over with the wire splices and cut them staggered as suggested. I used a piece of weedeater string to pull mine trough the bars. Use shrink tape over the splice and then use a larger piece over the whole wire assembly. The duetch connector come apart and go back fairly easy, youtube has some good videos on taking them apart. Just don't cut the pins off.
You could start over with the wire splices and cut them staggered as suggested. I used a piece of weedeater string to pull mine trough the bars. Use shrink tape over the splice and then use a larger piece over the whole wire assembly. The duetch connector come apart and go back fairly easy, youtube has some good videos on taking them apart. Just don't cut the pins off.
Better yet, use the heat shrink that has the sealant inside so it forms a water tight seal. However, the sealant type is a little thicker and not as pliable, but it will seal out any moisture. YD
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