97 Bagger, droppin 10K on a new motor is a non starter. I don't want to end up living in the garage with the bike. Not at the point where I need a new belt to justify ripping apart the primary for a trans sprocket replacement. The cam swap is an easy option, got all the tools including the bearing remover. The cam I'm running now is a replacement for the Sifton 141 ( Warrior ) cam recommended to go with the original Branch heads I had on the bike before a rocker arm keeper let go and destroyed one. With the SE heads this was quoted to be Harleys ( optimum ) cam. I admit I am a midrange rider, preferring to spin the motor rather than lug it. It's happiest above 2500 rpms. A cam change is certainly a possibilty but I don't want to loose the great top end I have now. It'll happily make power past 6500 ( did it on the dyno once now limited to 6250) I like the idea of a engine sprocket swap because it's also simple and cheap and easy to reverse if not to my liking.
Some consensus seems to be building on the cam. W6. who makes it? where to get one? I haven't bought a part at a HD dealership in many years.
TommyC and GR Brown, I believe a 1 tooth drop would be more than sufficient,I rarely cruise the highway at more than 80 because of the wind blast anyway, 300 more rpm
? I'll just slow down, I like slower better, I tour mostly across state and county roads. Once above about 2300/2500 rpm acceleration is good, especially for a stock bore and stroke 80 inches. Don't want to go big bore, I get a certain satisfaction from touring on a 30 year old ( ok, rebuilt ) bike with a " stock " engine config and a cumulative 85 thousand miles. Still doesn't leak a drop of anything except fuel after a long hot run.
There seems to be some conflict as to what number of teeth the stock motor sprocket has, and I'm guilty of not looking up the spec, or looking in my shop manual. I guess to be absolutely sure I would have to count em. All I know is for 95% of the riding I do the gearing is way too tall. 2 teeth would be 2 much, 1 oughta be just right. This is the one of the few bikes I've owned that I haven't altered the gearing on. Almost every mc I've had benefited from a gearing change. The only thing that stopped me previously was the belt, but I sure like the basically no maintenance quiet operation. Engine sprocket seems the simplest way to go. Oh
GBrown, stock rear pulley, going to go count the teeth ( well as soon as the temperature drops below 97f.
Did a mod a few years ago I forgot to mention which improved the overall handling so much It's a different bike: Installed the Glide Pro swing arm and engine mount kit to replace sloppy stockers and WOW, better ride all around. Highly recommended.

 

Thank you sir.

 

If those SE heads can handle lift in the .590" range, the W6H would really make awesome power to 6k no problems. The tdc lift is very similar to you SE54 so it just might work. You would still have to clay the piston to valve clearance....

 

Why do you think one of the members here had to sneak it into his shop in a trashcan????

Where there's a will there's a way!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks Owtlaw, gonna check them out now.

 

[QUOTE]Engine is only $3400, lawyer is $10,000, garbage can is $15.00 and saves $10,000 everybody knows that.

Here you go, sprockets and history of primary gearing

http://crustyoldsite.bakerdrivetrain...ting-sprockets

 

[QUOTE=1997bagger;16334709]hahahah

 

[QUOTE=1997bagger;16334709]Read and bookmarked. Big thanks for the link.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the great info and suggestions. Big thanks to 97bagger for the link to Baker. Looks like a 23T would be a good place to start, and I was not able to find one reference to the primary and final drive ratios in my fsm, thanks to those who got it right! So, Baker want's $150 for a 23t c s. Anyone know of less expensive alternative?

 

Been trying to cross reference HD part numbers, may be that the 86 fl had stock 23 t, gonna see if I can verify by physically comparing the earlier and later. After market replacements are as little as 56 bucks.