I do 3 hole 20/50 with my Twin Cam but I do not like that for an EVO. An evo likes oil more specific to the job.

Engine: 15/50 Mobile 1 from Walmart (about $21 a gallon). Regular old car oil. Dino oil is fine here but Walmart has this premium oil for effectively the same price as moto oil so why not.

Primary: Motorcycle oil 20/50 - need not be synthetic; must be compatible with "wet clutch"

Transmission: gear oil - Mobile 1 here but their gear oil, not motor oil.

All available at Walmart.

People can argue my "answer" but I've received a lot of non-answers to the same question before. So at least it's a data point.

And yes - fix whatever cooling issue before thinking oil will fix it.

 

it is running lean, it was stock when I got it.
I did just put my PC V and big sucker on but didn't make a difference to me, I'm going to verify that the map Fuel Moto sent is still loaded on it. If it is I'll take it back off and find an Indy in my area around Vacaville, I was going to take it to RC cycles in Hayward since I lived around the corner from him up till about a week ago when the wife and I split.
I know I do need to change the fluids in all three holes since it's time and was debating on doing it myself or let an Indy do it while tuning it.

 

Still haven't told us what your riding? Fuel injected? Might help us help you, YD

 

There will be no weeping issues with Red Line as it is not PAO based. That said, most PAO synthetics have addressed that issue too. Now, if the only thing keeping oil in your engine is internal lacquer buildup, its best to keep that lacquer healthy by sticking with Dino oils cause Red Line will clean all that **** out.

By going with Red Line plus a high flow, (not that particular brand), permanent oil filter I was able to drop average operating temps in my V2 by 10 degrees F. Thats pretty marginal but if you're just looking for passive solutions, I think thats about what you're gonna get.

I'll be installing my 3 Guys oil filter relocation kit at my next oil change. I'm doing this for looks and more convenient, (cleaner), oil changes but I'm hearing reports that getting the filter out in the air has reduced some guys operating temps a little further.

Again, these are passive changes, not focused on temperature directly so improvements are minor but significant. If you're not looking for 30 degree improvements, these changes will help plus provide better lubrication during cool starts and better filtration too. Hope this helps.

 

So, are you a Redline dealer?

 

I could use the discount but no.

 

Sorry thought it was in my signature.
1998 ultra classic, FI fully stock till I did the PC V and big sucker a few days ago.
Also i have 8000 on the bike now

 

I did talk with RC Cycle in Hayward and think I'll have him dyno tune the bike to get a good map and change the oils in all 3 holes while I'm there.
Price didn't seem bad for all of it. Only thing I did forget to ask was about the pipes, as far as I know they are stock pipes but I have a set of screaming eagle slip ons, would it matter much which set I use? I heard they are a tad better then what I have now.

 

The big sucker is flowing a lot more air than the stock air cleaner which is why it is running lean. You need to richen the mixture. It would also be smart to have a look at your spark plugs. Worn out spark plugs with a gap that is bigger than it should be can also cause the condition you described.

 

I figured the map that Fuel Moto did and loaded on it for me would richen it up real close to what I needed. Unless for some odd reason it's didn't stay loaded on it for me since when I first got it and then once it was able to be put on the bike.
I did get a set of new plugs so I would have a spare so I could pull them out and check to see what they look like.