Mikuni 42 23MPG?!?!
It's a HSR or TM there can be slight differences ,and yea the Miki book isn't always right there's smaller nozzles around just can't remember ,if you've got it set to squirting as soon as you touch the throttle there's your problem.
Found it , these are shorter but still fit. http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/catego...by-mikuni.html it's shorter but it's a smaller vent.
Yea I put this one or one like it on my TM 40 and yea it made a hell of a difference , not being a dick but do you know how to tune a carb just by running the bike and feedback of how it runs ?
Air screw should be 2 1/2 turns out too . Your 18mm float height forget that , just make sure as the fuel is cut off the float is parrallel with the carb base where you screw the bowl back to if that's about 18 it's a coincidence.
I see your turning the mixture screw and then trying a plug chop it's pointless like , you don't ride around at no throttle right and that's where it meters , unleaded fuel you read heat not so much colors .
Mikuni's do overlap though ,most other carbs don't, so one circuit can affect the next..
Last edited by badcooky; Oct 15, 2017 at 05:58 AM.
If you want to go with someones advise PM them and take it out of the forum so there's no confusion .
You don't have to PM me either I don't need it ,my little old 80 cube Evo runs really sharp and shuts down Twinkies of higher capacity and tune.
Out.
Last edited by badcooky; Oct 15, 2017 at 06:08 AM.
The short mikuni cable will function better but it's not the problem to your mpg.
Do like the last guy said,remove filter and look to see where the fuel squirts when you twist the throttle,do this while NOT running !!! It should aim straight in.
The short mikuni cable will function better but it's not the problem to your mpg.
Do like the last guy said,remove filter and look to see where the fuel squirts when you twist the throttle,do this while NOT running !!! It should aim straight in.
Yea and ya gotta hit the spray bar dead centre under vacuum so it deflects evenly to both pots . Use needle nose pliers to adjust.
Not trying to be a kunt man, it's just what has to be done.
If you want to go with someones advise PM them and take it out of the forum so there's no confusion .
You don't have to PM me either I don't need it ,my little old 80 cube Evo runs really sharp and shuts down Twinkies of higher capacity and tune.
Out.
Thanks for your help. I appreciate your honesty
Last edited by Fblo1690; Oct 15, 2017 at 08:52 AM.
Half way down the page is the set up guide look at the two diagrams there , but start that procedure after you get the basic float height . Set the air screw at 2 1/2 while you warm it up then screw it in till the bike stumbles, screw it out till it speeds up then sags , half way between the two is the spot man, do this with a warmed up motor , notice how the motor warms up ,if the choke you think is binding or some how messing with the outcome take it out of the system it's a pumper carb right, a couple of good squirts then kick her in the guts mate keep some throttle in so it doesn't stall. If the engines gets too hot, cause you're working it out and it's taking a while ,turn it off wait as bit, go have a drink or abong or whatever relax, as a really hot motor can mess with setting up a carb. if you're between two turns out to 3 that's close enough . Below 1 turn your too lean a pilot above 3 your too rich but even if you're just outside those or whatever and you CAN get a steady idle stay with the plan, and get the right pilot after you know a little more.
If you can tune a whipper snipper or chain saw you'll get this , they're harder than this actually , I'm scared of giving you an information overload, go through it steady make one change at a time if it doesn't work go back , try that again then go the other way but only one change at a time , you'll get it .
The carb ABC's after this set the pump to come on just a scratch later , ride and figure out if the bike stumbles or gets better with each change and yea it's in the diagram or written in the instructions the two screws you'll work it out. I usually have about a sixthteenth to an eight of an inch gap and a smaller pump nozzle than you have BUT learn with that one. Learn the signs you're too rich somewhere mate so yea back some fuel out if it gets better go a little further till optimum performance is attained.
Cheers HTH.
Last edited by badcooky; Oct 15, 2017 at 09:39 AM.
17.5 idle jet, leaner than the stock 25 or 20.
98 needle, leaner than the stock 97.
50 accelerator pump nozzle way down from the stock 80. (Accelerator pump set to come on early and shut off late.)
How can this system not get better fuel mileage? Started thinking about your post of you can turn the screw and it will black smoke like before, this is impossible without some other source of fuel like a choke plunger. The above system will get you 38-40 mpg with no questions.
I'm not too familiar guessing on carb tuning, use equipment and only make changes to dial within targets of performance and not a big fan of leaning it out for mileage but no reason you can't get to 40 safely on a stock engine.
BC is right, it is hard to a good plug reading off today's gas, pulled the plugs on my stock Twin Cam and they were redish lol. Your last set of plug pictures was too dark but wanted to see a real world riding mileage mpg again so you know a problem is present instead of WTF, we all get impatient when it comes to tuning and can not sleep at night. It may take weeks to get it close without equipment and sometimes equipment drives people crazy because they want it perfect, bottom line is a carb isn't a precision metering device, it is a controlled drip.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
So
17.5 idle jet, leaner than the stock 25 or 20.
98 needle, leaner than the stock 97.
50 accelerator pump nozzle way down from the stock 80. (Accelerator pump set to come on early and shut off late.)
How can this system not get better fuel mileage? Started thinking about your post of you can turn the screw and it will black smoke like before, this is impossible without some other source of fuel like a choke plunger. The above system will get you 38-40 mpg with no questions.
I'm not too familiar guessing on carb tuning, use equipment and only make changes to dial within targets of performance and not a big fan of leaning it out for mileage but no reason you can't get to 40 safely on a stock engine.
BC is right, it is hard to a good plug reading off today's gas, pulled the plugs on my stock Twin Cam and they were redish lol. Your last set of plug pictures was too dark but wanted to see a real world riding mileage mpg again so you know a problem is present instead of WTF, we all get impatient when it comes to tuning and can not sleep at night. It may take weeks to get it close without equipment and sometimes equipment drives people crazy because they want it perfect, bottom line is a carb isn't a precision metering device, it is a controlled drip.











