EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Yet another 80" build.

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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 04:43 PM
  #31  
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Ok. Cam change time. Is this usually where you need to remove material for a big cam? It doesnt look like ill have to take much but i will have to take a little all along the lower arc there. .560 lift

 
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 06:36 PM
  #32  
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It sounds like i should have my heads and cylinders back this week, so hopefully this weekend i can assemble the top end to check clearances. I have a few more questions before i do.

I picked up a cheap set of .035 head gaskets so i dont have to toast my cometic ones. Is it ok to torque the heads down without base gaskets just so i can check my clearances?

Is it ok to use a set of solid lifters adjusted to zero lash while checking clearances? I didn't want to risk a lifter not being pumped up and not giving me full lift.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 07:02 PM
  #33  
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You can assemble with out the base gasket and torque down heads to spec with the .035" head gasket. By using those head gaskets it will only make a total of .005" difference that you can calculate in when you clay the Pistons to the valves. For the litters (hydraulic) adjust out the entire lifter till it's bleed out completely. Your only turning it over by hand so it won't make a difference. Evo lifters from 0 lash have .200" travel till the lifter bottoms out as in a collapsed lifter.. you'll have the exhaust and intake off so you should be able to see everything ok...
 

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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 07:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
You can assemble with out the base gasket and torque down heads to spec with the .035" head gasket. By using those head gaskets it will only make a total of .005" difference that you can calculate in when you clay the Pistons to the valves. For the litters (hydraulic) adjust out the entire lifter till it's bleed out completely. Your only turning it over by hand so it won't make a difference. Evo lifters from 0 lash have .200" travel till the lifter bottoms out as in a collapsed lifter.. you'll have the exhaust and intake off so you should be able to see everything ok...
Exactly what i needed to know. Thank you
 
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 07:21 PM
  #35  
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Parts are back! I had a 5 angle valve job done, but my machinist didn't like how the compression releases would've layed on the head so he didnt drill them. He says he has had problems with early heads in the past. Something about the fin design i guess.

Front head measured 83cc's and the rear 84, so that should get me where i want to go with 10:1 pistons.

The s&s springs gave me plenty of room for the cam i selected thankfully.

 
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 04:42 AM
  #36  
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So no CR's and uneven cc's, hmmmm
 
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 05:57 AM
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I'm a little concerned about your build. Did you mock up the pistons in the cylinders and torque them down to figure your piston to deck clearance? If there is as little as .005" it will knock down your comp. Also How could you allow your head porter to finish the combustion chamber a cc apart? I've seen them go .1-.2 cc which is acceptable but not a full cc. The fact that you installed new springs is great but did you tell your porter about the cam specs. .252" lift@TDC is a lot and might require the valve seat to be moved up into the cylinder head to prevent valve to piston contact and Increase the valve to valve clearance. Same with the exhaust valve @ .210"@TDC. That is an aggressive cam.... Make sure you mock it all up and clay the pistons to get accurate valve clearance.
 

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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 06:20 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
I'm a little concerned about your build. Did you mock up the pistons in the cylinders and torque them down to figure your piston to deck clearance? If there is as little as .005" it will knock down your comp. Also How could you allow your head porter to finish the combustion chamber a cc apart? I've seen them go .1-.2 cc which is acceptable but not a full cc. The fact that you installed new springs is great but did you tell your porter about the cam specs. .252" lift@TDC is a lot and might require the valve seat to be moved up into the cylinder head to prevent valve to piston contact and Increase the valve to valve clearance. Same with the exhaust valve @ .210"@TDC. That is an aggressive cam.... Make sure you mock it all up and clay the pistons to get accurate valve clearance.
I haven't checked deck height yet but I am going to before I order gaskets.

As far as the heads being a cc different, I measured them myself and I don't have a beret just a syringe. So my level of accuracy is probably +/- 1cc. I just wanted to get a good idea.

As far as the tdc lift, it worries me a little too. But after I check valve to piston clearance then I will know. If I run into clearance problems I will probably switch cam grinds.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 07:04 AM
  #39  
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You don't need any gaskets to mock it up to check your clearances. You just add the thickness of your gaskets to those clearances (.010" on the base and .030"on the heads) and that should put you in the ballpark. Unless you're valve to piston is so close that might be an issue there. When cranking it over by hand you can look into both intake, exhaust ports and spark plug hole to see kind of like where you're at with your piston and everything. Just a little piece of mind.... Turn over by hand only and very carefully....
 
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 12:10 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 98hotrodfatboy
You don't need any gaskets to mock it up to check your clearances. You just add the thickness of your gaskets to those clearances (.010" on the base and .030"on the heads) and that should put you in the ballpark. Unless you're valve to piston is so close that might be an issue there. When cranking it over by hand you can look into both intake, exhaust ports and spark plug hole to see kind of like where you're at with your piston and everything. Just a little piece of mind.... Turn over by hand only and very carefully....
I have some specialty screamin eagle orange play doh just for this job lol. I will get my measurements hopefully this weekend and report back.

You said you have a 1.6 kw starter in your 77 shovel. Mind if i ask what brand? Im guessing i will be buying one since the comp releases were a no go.
 
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