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So Ive mentioned before that I installed the joe minton kit thinking it was my issue before. Turns out it was my VOES and choke cable. So now that those two issues are fixed i took my Mikuni 42 back to stock. Im going to ride it tomorrow to try it out. What do yall think of the factory settings.
25 pilot
160 main
97 needle middle clip
70 Acc Nozzle
air screw 2 turns out.
bike seems to rev well on the stand.
When I go in on air screw I can get to about 1.25 open and bikes idle starts to change. The funny thing is I can almost completely unscrew the air screw and I dont hear any changes BUT at about 3.5 turn out I can try to roll the throttle and it will hesitate. So Ill stay at 2 and try it out.
Also is this normal? If I roll the throttle, quickly but smoothly it revs up fine but if I go from idle to almost wide open instantly I get a pop and itll sputter n die.
Please take the guesswork out.
This will be the very best present you ever bought yourself.(and your bike)
Truly with todays gas (and the fact most people have no clue how to do a actual plug check ) this tool will
Benefit you for as long as you own a carb.
It will mount right to your handle bar and then you will say-Who needs a dyno room?
Its too EZ- Use one hole saw pick a place on the inside of your forward pipe so as to hide the wideband sensor.
Cut the hole and weld the included bung in.
It is not as hard as changing a tire.
The wiring is simple.
Like I said,-why spend everyone's time on here guessing?
When the information is at one's fingertips and it will be correct.
Its too EZ- Use one hole saw pick a place on the inside of your forward pipe so as to hide the wideband sensor.
Cut the hole and weld the included bung in.
It is not as hard as changing a tire.
The wiring is simple.
Like I said,-why spend everyone's time on here guessing?
When the information is at one's fingertips and it will be correct.
To learn how to do it. Just like math, need to know how to work the problem on paper before you use a calculator. Just my opinion.
If it runs better cold then it is rich, runs better hot =lean.
Like I said-if you are able to pull a carb apart and change jets
the AFR gauge will be EZ for you, and a forever paying you back tool.
To learn how to do it. Just like math, need to know how to work the problem on paper before you use a calculator. Just my opinion.
The unit reads in both measurements. pick one you like( lambda even)
Its too simple I tell ya.
A stock bike with a computer and all the crap runs way lean (and HOT)
The needle will show 14.7 and more *stoichiometric.
*Which is a fancy term for a purrfect burn
We with carbs will see lower number depending on what we have done to the engine (if moded)
For you, it will identify where the problem is RIGHT NOW with no schooling.
In fact, to try to adjust a carb with no experience is just beating your head against the wall.
You install this start the bike up watch the numbers go for a ride and not throttle positions where lean or rich happen.
Come back and adjust it.
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